Atene Skyline Track

Loop

The latter half of the walk takes you over the highest points: Taumata Trig (572m) and Taupiri Trig. Here, the track narrows and skims the edges of striking sandstone bluffs. The views down into the Whanganui River and the AhuAhu Valley are nothing short of spectacular, but you’ll need to watch your footing—the drops are significant, and the clay soil can be incredibly unforgiving.

The final descent back to the northern trailhead is steep and can be quite technical. If there has been recent rain, the clay becomes a virtual slide, so trekking poles are highly recommended here.

Highlights & Must-See Features

The undisputed crown jewel of this hike is the view of the Atene Meander. Thousands of years ago, the Whanganui River performed a massive loop here. Over time, erosion cut through the neck of the loop, creating a shorter path and leaving behind a "fossil" meander—a massive circular valley with Puketapu Hill sitting right in the centre. Seeing this geological phenomenon from the ridgeline is a perspective you won't get anywhere else.

History buffs will appreciate the significance of Puketapu Hill. This was once a fortified Māori pā, strategically positioned to overlook the river. Walking this track feels like walking through a living history book, where the landscape itself tells stories of ancient habitation and strategic defense.

Another unique feature is the section of the track that follows an old roadline. This wasn't built for hikers; it was part of a proposed 1960s hydroelectric scheme. The project was eventually abandoned, but the benched road remains, providing a haunting reminder of how close this wild river came to being dammed.

Getting There

To reach the track, you’ll need to drive approximately 45 minutes from Whanganui along the Whanganui River Road. This road is a destination in its own right—narrow, winding, and incredibly scenic.

• The Southern Entrance: This is the traditional "start" for the climb.
• The Northern Entrance: This is generally the better place to park as there is more roadside space.

Our pro tip? Park at the northern end, walk the 2km south along the road (keep an eye out for traffic, as the road is narrow!), and then enter the bush. This means when you emerge 8 hours later, exhausted and muddy, your car is right there waiting for you.

Wildlife Spotting

The Whanganui National Park is a haven for native birdlife. As you climb through the lower forest, keep your ears open for the melodic chime of the Bellbird (Korimako) and the boisterous call of the Tūī.

The Kererū (NZ Pigeon) is a common sight here; listen for the heavy "whoosh-whoosh" of their wings as they fly between the fruiting podocarps like matai and rimu. If you are quiet during the ridgeline sections, you might be lucky enough to spot a North Island Robin (Toutouwai). These friendly little birds are known for their curiosity and may even hop close to your boots to see if you’ve stirred up any delicious insects from the leaf litter.

In the higher, more stunted forest near the trigs, keep an eye out for the tiny Rifleman (Tītipounamu), New Zealand’s smallest bird, flitting nervously among the mossy branches.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

• Summer & Autumn: These are the best times for the hike. The clay tracks are more likely to be dry, providing better grip. The long daylight hours are essential given the 8-hour duration.
• Spring: The forest is vibrant and the birds are most active, but expect muddy sections.
• Winter: Only recommended for very experienced trampers. The track can become dangerously slippery, and the light fades early.

• Water: Carry at least 2-3 litres. There is a tank at the shelter, but it should be treated/boiled before drinking, and it can run dry in summer.
• Footwear: Sturdy, high-ankle tramping boots with good tread are non-negotiable.
• Safety: There is no cell phone coverage for much of the track. We strongly recommend carrying a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB).
• Layers: Even on a warm day, the ridgeline is exposed to the wind. Bring a windproof/waterproof jacket and a warm mid-layer.

Local & Regional Context

The Whanganui River is often referred to as Te Awa Tupua. In a landmark legal ruling, the river was granted the same legal rights as a human being, reflecting the deep spiritual connection the local iwi (tribes) have with the water. As you look down from the Skyline track, you aren't just looking at a river; you are looking at an ancestor.

The area is steeped in mana (prestige) and history. The name "Atene" is the Māori transliteration of "Athens," named by missionaries in the 19th century, alongside other local settlements like Hiruhārama (Jerusalem) and Koriniti (Corinth).

After the Walk

After 8 hours on your feet and 750 metres of elevation gain, you’ll have earned a serious meal. Head back into Whanganui (about a 45-minute drive) to refuel.

• Mud Ducks: Located right on the riverbank in town, this is a local favourite for a hearty brunch or a big slice of cake and a coffee.
• The Yellow House Cafe: A great spot for a relaxed atmosphere and excellent food. It’s a perfect place to sit back and scroll through those epic photos of the meander you just took.
• The Rutland Arms Inn: If you’re after a post-hike pint and some classic pub grub in a historic setting, this is the place to be.

A quick note for families and dog owners: Due to the steep terrain, sheer bluffs, and the length of the day, this track is not suitable for children and dogs are not permitted within the National Park.

The Atene Skyline Track is a true North Island classic. It’s tough, it’s muddy, and it’s long—but standing on that ridgeline looking out over the ancient curves of the Whanganui River, you’ll realize it’s worth every single step.