Back Beach Walks

Out and back

Speaking of photos, the sunset at Back Beach is legendary. As the sun dips toward the horizon, the light catches the iron-rich black sand, making it shimmer like silk, while the sky turns into a canvas of pinks, oranges, and deep purples. It is a "must-do" for anyone with a camera or even just a deep appreciation for a good view.

For those with a bit of energy to burn, the massive sand dunes at the southern end of the beach offer a bit of a physical challenge. Scrambling to the top is a rite of passage for local kids and visitors alike. Once you reach the summit, you’re rewarded with a panoramic vista that encompasses the islands, the sprawling coastline, and the formidable silhouette of Paritutu Rock standing guard over the northern end.

Another highlight is the Herekawe Stream itself. The transition from the rugged coast to the lush native bush of the walkway is surprisingly quick. The bridges and the well-maintained paths make it accessible for almost everyone, offering a peaceful sanctuary when the coastal winds are a bit too "refreshing."

Getting There

Getting to Back Beach is straightforward, and you have a couple of options for where to start your adventure.

If you are aiming specifically for the Herekawe Walkway, the best place to park is the dedicated car park located at 4 Rangitake Drive. This puts you right at the trailhead and provides a safe, off-road spot to leave your vehicle.

If you are more interested in the beach itself or the sand dunes, there is ample roadside parking along Centennial Drive. This road winds along the clifftop above the beach, and there are numerous spots where you can pull over and take one of the various tracks or stairways down to the sand. It’s worth noting that while there isn't one giant "formal" parking lot on the hill, the roadside spaces are plentiful and offer some of the best views in town before you’ve even stepped out of the car.

Wildlife Spotting

Despite being so close to the city, the Back Beach area is a haven for New Zealand’s native birdlife. On the Herekawe Walkway, keep your eyes peeled for the cheeky Fantail (Pīwakawaka). These birds are incredibly friendly and will often flutter just a metre or two away from you, hoping your footsteps disturb some tasty insects. You’ll also likely hear the melodic, high-pitched song of the Grey Warbler (Riroriro), though they are much harder to spot amongst the leaves.

Closer to the water and on the rocky outcrops of the Sugar Loaf Islands, the birdlife changes. The Red-billed Gull is a constant companion along the shore. If you’re lucky, you might spot a White-fronted Tern (Tara) diving for fish just beyond the breakers, particularly during the spring and summer months. Look toward the islands and you might see the prehistoric silhouette of a Pied Shag (Kāruhiruhi) drying its wings on a high rock.

Pro tip: Bring a pair of binoculars if you have them. The islands are home to significant seabird colonies, and watching the activity around the rocks from the safety of the shore is a great way to spend half an hour.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

Back Beach is a destination for all seasons, but each brings a different flavour:

• Summer: This is the peak time for beach lovers. The water is inviting, and the beach becomes a hub for picnics and sunbathing. However, a major safety warning: Back Beach is unpatrolled and is notorious for strong currents and hidden tidal rips. If you aren't an experienced ocean swimmer, it's best to stick to the shallows or head to the nearby patrolled Fitzroy or East End beaches for a dip.
• Autumn & Spring: These are arguably the best times for the Herekawe Walkway. The temperatures are mild, and the light is softer, making the bush look particularly vibrant.
• Winter: Don't write off a winter visit! A storm-watching walk at Back Beach is exhilarating. The Tasman Sea puts on a show with massive swells, and the crisp, clear air often provides the best views of the distant mountain.

• What to bring: Even on a short 3km walk, New Zealand weather can be fickle. Bring a light windbreaker, as the coastal breeze can be biting. Sun protection is a must—the reflection off the black sand can be intense even on cloudy days.
• Footwear: For the Herekawe Walkway, a good pair of sneakers is fine. If you’re heading onto the beach, be prepared for sand in everything!
• Time of day: Aim for late afternoon. Starting your walk an hour or so before sunset allows you to enjoy the bush walk and then emerge onto the beach just as the "golden hour" begins.

Local & Regional Context

The area around Back Beach is rich in history and geological significance. The Sugar Loaf Islands and Paritutu Rock are part of the oldest volcanic activity in the Taranaki region, dating back about 1.7 million years. They are essentially the "plugs" of an ancient volcano that has long since eroded away.

For the local Māori, these landmarks hold great cultural significance. The islands provided a natural fortress and a rich source of seafood for the people of Te Āti Awa. You can feel the history of the place as you look out at the islands; it’s easy to imagine how they served as lookout points for centuries.

Back Beach also plays a role in the modern identity of New Plymouth. It marks one of the southern access points to the award-winning New Plymouth Coastal Walkway, a 12.7km promenade that has transformed how locals and tourists interact with the sea. By walking here, you are treading a path that connects the ancient volcanic past with the modern, vibrant life of the city.

After the Walk

After you’ve worked up an appetite on the dunes or enjoyed the serenity of the Herekawe Stream, New Plymouth has some fantastic spots to refuel:

• Proof and Stock (0.5km away): This is a true local gem. Located in a converted garage just up the hill from the beach, it’s a specialty coffee outpost that roasts its own beans. It’s the perfect place to grab a stellar espresso and a pastry. It’s very "local vibe" and a great place to chat with residents.
• The Bach On Breakwater (3km away): If you fancy a proper meal with a view, head toward the port. This cafe and restaurant sits right on the edge of the Coastal Walkway. They do a fantastic range of Kiwi classics and have plenty of options for vegetarians or those needing gluten-free meals.
• The Good Home (3.5km away): For a more relaxed, "pub" feel, this gastropub is a winner. It has a welcoming atmosphere, a great selection of beers, and a rooftop bar that looks back toward the ocean. It’s ideal for a hearty burger or a plate of chips after a day in the salt air.
• Elixir Cafe (4km away): Located in the heart of the city, Elixir is famous for its "mince on toast" and its cozy, French-inspired interior. It’s a great spot if you want to head into town and browse the shops after your walk.

3km away

Situated at the end of the Coastal Walkway near Port Taranaki, offering modern Kiwi cuisine with stunning waterfront views and a range of gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan options.