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Smoke Ho car park, Blackball
22.1 km
36 hours
1200 metres
If you are looking for a tramp that perfectly captures the wild, untamed spirit of the West Coast, the Croesus Track should be right at the top of your list. Stretching across the rugged Paparoa Range, this 22.1-kilometre journey is more than just a walk; it is a step back in time. It connects the small, character-filled township of Blackball in the Grey Valley with Barrytown on the Tasman Sea coast, following a route carved out by determined gold miners over a century ago.
This is a "hard" rated trail for a reason. With a significant 1200-metre elevation gain and a landscape that can turn from lush rainforest to exposed subalpine tops in a matter of hours, it demands respect and a good pair of boots. Whether you are an experienced tramper looking for a weekend mission or an advanced mountain biker seeking a technical challenge, the Croesus Track delivers a rich tapestry of history and some of the most spectacular views in New Zealand.
The journey begins at the Smoke-ho car park, just a stone’s throw from Blackball. From the moment you step onto the trail, you are enveloped in a vibrant world of native ngahere (forest). The initial section winds through a lush mix of podocarp and beech trees. You’ll hear the rush of mountain streams and cross sturdy suspension bridges that offer a bird's-eye view of the sparkling, boulder-strewn creeks below.
As you begin the steady climb, the track tells the story of the 19th-century miners who built it. The gradient is persistent but well-engineered—a testament to the hardy souls who moved stone and earth here between 1881 and 1899. As you gain altitude, the towering trees begin to shrink, giving way to subalpine scrub and eventually the wide-open, golden tussock lands of the Paparoa Range.
Reaching the "tops" is a transformative experience. On a clear day, the forest canopy opens up to reveal a breathtaking 360-degree panorama. To the east, the snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps / Kā Tiritiri o te Moana pierce the horizon, and if you are lucky, you might even spot the distant, regal silhouette of Aoraki Mount Cook. To the west, the land falls away toward the Tasman Sea, where the waves crash against the rugged coastline.
However, the tops are also where the challenge intensifies. The track is marked by snow poles here, and for good reason. This section is highly exposed to the elements. When the mist rolls in—as it often does on the "Wet Coast"—navigation can become tricky, and the wind can pack a serious punch. It’s a place that makes you feel small, reminding you of the raw power of the New Zealand wilderness.
Parking is available at the Smoke-ho car park, located at the end of Croesus Track Road, approximately 1 km past Blackball township. The gravel Croesus Track Road is not recommended for campervans. Camping at the Smoke-ho car park is not permitted.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Nestor meridionalis
Large forest parrot found in native bush. Loud and social, increasingly common in predator-controlled sanctuaries.
Best time: Year-round
Petroica australis
New Zealand robins are known for their tameness and often approach hikers closely, especially in forested areas.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
8.5km away
A rustic and historic pub with a long and fascinating history, offering a la carte dining with local West Coast ingredients, a bar specialising in Monteith's, and accommodation options.
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Point to point
The Croesus Track is a living museum. For history buffs, the standout feature is the Garden Gully Battery site. A short side track leads you to this impressive relic of the quartz mining era, where you can see the heavy machinery left behind by miners who dreamt of striking it rich. You’ll also notice 19th-century alluvial workings and the remains of an old aerial ropeway, which transported ore across the steep terrain.
For those after the ultimate photo opportunity, the views from the Ces Clark Hut are unbeatable. Perched just above the treeline, the hut serves as a perfect vantage point for watching the sunset over the Tasman Sea. It’s a popular overnight spot and requires advance booking through the Department of Conservation (DOC).
Another point of interest is the Croesus Top Hut. Unlike the modern Ces Clark, this is a historic hut preserved for its heritage value. While it’s mainly used as an emergency shelter now, peering inside gives you a real sense of the sparse, rugged conditions the early pioneers endured.
Lastly, it’s worth noting that this track forms the first leg of the Paparoa Track, one of New Zealand’s newest Great Walks. Being on this trail means you are walking a key artery of the country’s tramping network, sharing the path with those heading deep into the heart of the Paparoa National Park.
To find the trailhead, head to the township of Blackball, located about 20 minutes inland from Greymouth. From the town, follow Croesus Track Road for approximately 1 km until you reach the Smoke-ho car park.
A quick word of advice: the road to the car park is gravel and can be narrow in places. It is not recommended for campervans, so if you are travelling in a larger vehicle, you may need to arrange a drop-off or park further back and walk in. Also, please note that camping at the Smoke-ho car park is strictly prohibited. Since this is a point-to-point trail ending in Barrytown, most hikers either arrange a key swap with friends or book a local shuttle service to get back to their vehicle.
The West Coast is a stronghold for native birdlife, and the Croesus Track offers plenty of opportunities for birdwatching.
Keep an ear out for the raucous, musical call of the Kākā, which are common in the forest year-round. If you see a small, friendly bird hopping along the track near your feet, it’s likely a New Zealand Robin (Toutouwai). They are incredibly curious and often follow hikers to snack on the insects stirred up by their boots.
If you are scanning the skies above the tussock tops, you might be lucky enough to spot the New Zealand Falcon (Kārearea), our only endemic bird of prey, known for its incredible speed and agility. In the lower creeks, keep a sharp eye out for the rare Blue Duck (Whio) bobbing in the white water. While Kiwi are present in the area, they are nocturnal and very shy, so you’re more likely to hear their piercing whistles at night if you are staying over at Ces Clark Hut than you are to see one during the day.
Given the difficulty and the length of the walk, this trail is not recommended for children or for those who aren't confident in backcountry navigation. It is also a no-dogs area to protect the sensitive local wildlife, including the kiwi and whio.
The area around Blackball and the Paparoa Range is steeped in a "coastal-industrial" heritage. Long before the miners arrived, Māori used various routes through the ranges for seasonal food gathering and the transport of pounamu (greenstone).
The colonial history is dominated by the gold rush. Between 1881 and 1899, the Croesus Track was a vital link for the miners working the quartz reefs. Walking the trail today, you can’t help but admire the sheer grit of the people who built this path using little more than hand tools and explosives.
Today, the region is a hub for conservation and outdoor recreation. The creation of the Paparoa Track Great Walk was a significant milestone for the West Coast, serving as a memorial to the 29 miners lost in the Pike River Mine disaster and ensuring this stunning wilderness is preserved for future generations to explore.
Once you’ve finished your trek and made your way back to Blackball, there is no better way to celebrate than by visiting the local legends.
The Blackball Hilton (formerly named as such, now often referred to by its historic pub roots) is an absolute must. It’s a rustic, historic pub that feels like a time capsule. They offer a great a la carte menu featuring local West Coast ingredients, and there is nothing quite like a cold glass of Monteith’s to toast your successful tramp.
If you’re after a caffeine fix or a hearty meal, head to Blackball's Inn and 08 Cafe. It’s been beautifully refurbished and offers a very cosy atmosphere. They serve everything from breakfast to dinner and have excellent vegan options, making it a great spot for groups with different dietary needs. Both spots offer accommodation if you’re too tired to drive after your adventure!
Falco novaeseelandiae
Also known as Kārearea. Fast and agile raptor found in both forest and open country.
Best time: Year-round
Apteryx mantelli
Iconic flightless bird and national symbol. Nocturnal and rarely seen but sometimes heard on night walks in predator-free areas.
Best time: Year-round
Megalurus punctatus
This small, secretive bird is masters of camouflage, often heard making its distinctive 'u-tick' call in dense vegetation rather than seen.
Best time: Year-round
Hymenolaimus malacorhynchos
Also known as Whio, featured on the NZ $10 note. Found on fast-flowing mountain rivers.
Best time: Year-round
8.5km away
A recently refurbished inn and cafe offering a cosy atmosphere, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner with locally sourced produce, including vegan options. Also provides accommodation.