Donald River Track (Kaweka Forest Park)

Out and back

Walking along the Black Birch Range feels like walking on the spine of the world. The wind can whip up here, and the weather is famously fickle, but the sense of isolation and raw beauty is unparalleled. Because this is an out-and-back trail, you’ll have the chance to experience these vistas from both directions, noting how the light changes the colours of the ranges as the day progresses.

Highlights & Must-See Features

The primary highlight of this tramp is the sheer, unadulterated wilderness. Unlike more manicured Great Walks, the Donald River area feels "real."

• Black Birch Bivouac: For those who want to stretch this into an overnight adventure, the Black Birch Bivouac is a classic Kiwi backcountry experience. It’s a basic, two-bunk "dog-box" style hut that offers a rustic place to rest your head. It’s tiny, it’s remote, and on a clear night, the stargazing from here is world-class.
• The Black Birch Range Vistas: Once you break out of the bushline, the 360-degree views of the Kaweka Ranges are breathtaking. On a clear day, you can see the rugged interior of the park stretching toward the central plateau.
• The Donald River Headwaters: While the main track stays on the ridges, the glimpses down into the pristine tributaries of the Donald River are a highlight. The water here is crystal clear and represents some of the most untouched aquatic environments in the region.

Getting There

To reach the trailhead, you’ll need to head approximately 65 kilometres north-west of Napier. The drive itself is a scenic introduction to the Hawke’s Bay backcountry.

1. From Napier, follow Puketitiri Road for about an hour.
2. Turn onto Whittle Road, which branches off Puketitiri Road. Note that this road passes through private farmland—please be respectful and leave all gates exactly as you find them.
3. Whittle Road leads you to Lotkow Road, a 7-kilometre gravel stretch.

Important Vehicle Note: While the road is generally accessible, it features two fords that can become impassable after heavy rain. We highly recommend a 4WD vehicle for all access roads within the Kaweka Forest Park. It provides the necessary clearance for the fords and ensures you won't get stuck if the weather takes a turn.

Wildlife Spotting

The Kaweka Forest Park is a stronghold for native birdlife, and the Donald River area is no exception. Because of the remote nature of the track, you have a high chance of some special encounters.

• Kererū (NZ Wood Pigeon): You’ll likely hear these before you see them. Listen for the heavy, rhythmic "whoosh-whoosh" of their wings. They are common year-round, often seen feasting on berries in the lower forest sections.
• Kākā: Keep an ear out for the raucous, screeching call of the kākā. These charismatic forest parrots are occasionally seen flitting through the canopy.
• Kārearea (NZ Falcon): If you see a bird of prey diving at incredible speeds, it’s likely the kārearea. They frequent the more open, sub-alpine areas along the range.
• Whio (Blue Duck): Though rare, these incredible ducks live in the fast-flowing waters of the Donald River. If you venture down toward the water, keep a silent watch—they are masters of camouflage against the grey river stones.
• Tūī and Pīwakawaka (Fantail): These friendly locals will likely accompany you for much of the lower bush walk. The pīwakawaka loves to follow hikers to catch the insects stirred up by their boots.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

The best time to tackle the Donald River Track is during Spring, Summer, or Autumn.

• Spring: The forest is vibrant and the birdlife is most active. However, be mindful that spring rain can make the river fords on the road and the track itself quite muddy.
• Summer: Offers the most stable weather for ridge walking. It can get very hot on the exposed sections of the Black Birch Range, so carry plenty of water (at least 2–3 litres per person).
• Autumn: Often provides the clearest, most settled days with crisp air—perfect for photography.

• Start Early: With a 7-hour return time, you’ll want to hit the trail by 9:00 am at the latest to ensure you’re back before dusk, especially in the shorter days of autumn.
• Gear Up: Sturdy tramping boots with good ankle support and grip are non-negotiable. Because the weather in the Kawekas can flip from sunshine to a freezing "Kaweka mist" in minutes, always pack a waterproof jacket, a warm hat, and gloves, even in summer.
• Navigation: This is an advanced track. Carry a topographic map and a compass (and know how to use them), or a reliable GPS device.
• Safety First: This track is not kid-friendly due to the steepness and technical terrain, and dogs are not permitted in this area of the park to protect the native wildlife.

Local & Regional Context

The Kaweka Forest Park holds a special place in the heart of Hawke’s Bay. For generations, these ranges have been a place of challenge and provision. For Māori, the ranges were traditionally used for seasonal hunting and as transit routes between the coast and the central North Island.

In more recent history, the Kawekas became known for their ruggedness and the "Big Hill" country that tested early colonial explorers and farmers. Today, the park is a hub for conservation, particularly around the protection of the whio and the management of wild deer and pigs. When you walk here, you’re walking through a landscape that is being actively managed to return it to its former glory. The sense of isolation here is a rare commodity in the modern world, making the Donald River area a true "wilderness" experience.

After the Walk

After seven hours of climbing and descending, your appetite will be roaring. Since you’re out in the "wop-wops," there aren't many cafes at the trailhead, but the drive back toward Napier offers some great spots to refuel.

• The Puketapu: Located on your way back toward Napier, this iconic rural pub is a favourite for hikers and cyclists. It has a fantastic outdoor area, great burgers, and a cold selection of local beers. It’s the perfect place to kick off your boots and recount the day’s adventures.
• Snapper Jack’s (Bay View): If you make it all the way back to the coast, grab some classic Kiwi fish and chips at Bay View to eat by the ocean. There’s nothing quite like salty chips to replace the electrolytes lost on the Black Birch Range!

The Donald River Track is a challenge, no doubt about it. But as you stand on that ridge, looking out over the folded green mountains of the Kaweka Forest Park, you’ll realise that every steep step was worth it. It’s New Zealand tramping at its most authentic.