Heaphy Track (Brown Hut End)

Point to point

Highlights & Must-See Features

The Heaphy Track is a "best-of" reel for New Zealand’s natural diversity. One of the first major milestones is Flanagans Corner. At 915 metres, this is the highest point on the track. A short side-trip here rewards you with a panoramic vista that captures the rugged spirit of Kahurangi National Park.

Further along, the Gouland Downs offer a unique geological playground. Keep an eye out for the "Boot Pole"—a quirky, unofficial landmark where hikers have hung their retired boots over the years. The downs are also home to "The Enchanted Forest," a small, moss-drenched pocket of beech trees that looks like something straight out of a fantasy novel.

The river crossings are another highlight. The suspension bridges on the Heaphy are feats of engineering, spanning wide chasms and providing the perfect vantage point to look down into the tea-coloured waters of the Heaphy River.

Finally, the coastal section is the track’s crowning glory. The sight of the nīkau palms—the world’s southernmost palm tree—growing right up to the edge of the wild West Coast surf is a quintessential New Zealand image. Watching the sunset over the Tasman Sea from the Heaphy Hut or Kohaihai is the perfect way to celebrate the end of your journey.

Getting There

The eastern trailhead is located at Brown Hut, at the very end of Aorere Valley Road in Golden Bay. If you’re coming from Nelson, expect a scenic but winding drive of about 2 hours and 25 minutes (roughly 156 km). You’ll head over the famous Takaka Hill on SH 60, through the vibrant township of Takaka, and then continue through Collingwood before heading inland up the valley. From Takaka, it's about a 52 km drive.

Overnight parking is available at the Brown Hut trailhead. However, because the Heaphy is a point-to-point trail, logistics can be a bit of a puzzle. The "other end" of the track at Kohaihai is near Karamea on the West Coast. It’s important to remember that while the hike is 78km, the drive between the two road ends is about 450km and takes around 7 or 8 hours! Most trampers arrange a commercial shuttle or a car relocation service to meet them at the other end.

Wildlife Spotting

Kahurangi National Park is a haven for some of New Zealand’s most precious birdlife. Because this area is so remote, you have a genuine chance of seeing species that are rare elsewhere.

• Great Spotted Kiwi (Roa): These are occasionally heard (and very rarely seen) at night near the huts, particularly around Perry Saddle and Gouland Downs. Listen for their shrill, whistling calls after dark.
• Takahē: These rare, prehistoric-looking blue birds were reintroduced to the Gouland Downs. If you’re lucky, you might spot one foraging in the tussock.
• Weka: These guys are everywhere! They are curious, flightless, and notorious thieves. Keep a close eye on your snacks and shiny objects whenever you stop for a rest.
• Kea: The world’s only alpine parrot often visits the higher huts. They are incredibly intelligent but can be destructive—don't leave your boots or gear outside!
• South Island Robin (Toutouwai): These friendly little birds will often follow you along the forest sections, hoping you’ll stir up some insects with your boots.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

The Heaphy Track is open year-round, and each season brings its own flavour. Summer offers the most stable weather and long daylight hours, but it’s also the busiest time, requiring hut bookings months in advance. Spring and Autumn provide cooler walking temperatures and stunning light, though you should be prepared for more rain. Winter is a unique time on the Heaphy; the tops can see a dusting of snow, and this is the only time (May to November) that the track is open to mountain bikers, adding a different energy to the trail.

• Start Early: On day one, try to leave Brown Hut by mid-morning. The climb to Perry Saddle is steady, and you’ll want plenty of time to enjoy the views at Flanagans Corner before the sun goes down.
• Water & Food: There are tanks at the DOC huts, but it’s always wise to carry at least 2 litres of water. You must be entirely self-sufficient with food and cooking equipment.
• The "West Coast Welcome": Once you hit the coast, the sandflies can be relentless. Bring a high-quality repellent and try to keep moving when you're in the nīkau groves.
• Weather Watch: This is a wilderness area. Even in summer, the weather can flip from blue skies to a torrential nor'west deluge in an hour. Always carry a waterproof jacket and warm layers (merino or fleece).
• Safety at the River Mouth: Be very cautious near the Heaphy River mouth. The currents and rips are incredibly strong; it is not a swimming beach.

Local & Regional Context

The Heaphy Track isn't just a walk; it’s a path through history. Long before European explorers arrived, Māori used these routes to travel from the Golden Bay area to the West Coast in search of pounamu (greenstone). The track follows these ancient trails, and you can feel the weight of that history as you cross the divide.

In the 19th century, the area saw a flurry of activity from gold prospectors and surveyors. The track is named after Charles Heaphy, an artist and explorer who traversed the coast in 1846, though he never actually walked the full inland route that the track follows today.

The Kahurangi National Park itself is New Zealand’s second-largest national park. Its name means "treasured possession" in Te Reo Māori, a fitting description for a place with such complex geology—ranging from some of the oldest rocks in the country to dramatic marble and karst landscapes. The park is a major focus for conservation, with extensive trapping programmes helping to protect the native birdlife you’ll see along the way.

After the Walk

Once you’ve finished the trek and either shuttled back to Golden Bay or reached Karamea, you’ll be ravenous. If you’ve headed back toward the Brown Hut end, make a stop at The Mussel Inn in Onekaka. It’s an iconic Kiwi pub with a relaxed garden atmosphere, famous for its "Captain Cooker" manuka beer and fresh steamed mussels—the ultimate reward for a 78km tramp.

In Takaka, the Wholemeal Café is a local favourite for hikers. They serve up hearty, wholesome meals and excellent coffee in a converted old theatre. If you finish on the West Coast side, head into Karamea and grab a burger and a cold drink at the Last Resort, where you can swap stories with other hikers who have just emerged from the wild.

The Heaphy Track is a big commitment, but it’s a journey that stays with you. It is kid-friendly for families with tramping experience, making it a fantastic "rite of passage" for active youngsters. Just remember, there are no dogs allowed to protect the fragile bird populations. Pack your bags, check the forecast, and get ready for one of the greatest adventures New Zealand has to offer.