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Otago Peninsula, Dunedin
4 km
2 hours
200 metres
If you are looking for a walk that perfectly captures the "wild heart" of Dunedin without requiring a full day’s commitment, look no further than the Karetai Road Track. Perched on the dramatic southern edge of the Otago Peninsula, this 4-kilometre return journey is a masterclass in coastal grandeur. It is the kind of place where the air always tastes of salt, the hills are a vibrant, impossible green, and the views stretch out across the Pacific until the horizon simply melts away.
Whether you are a local Dunedinite looking for a fresh weekend lung-buster or a visitor wanting to see the rugged side of the South Island, the Karetai Road Track delivers. It offers a refreshing blend of pastoral charm—think grazing sheep and historic stone walls—and raw, untamed coastal beauty. Best of all? It’s a fantastic option for families and those with four-legged friends in tow, as dogs are more than welcome to join the adventure.
The Karetai Road Track is essentially an old public road turned 4WD track that links the sea-level beauty of Smails Beach with the high ridges of the Otago Peninsula. Because it is an "out and back" trail, you have a choice of where to start, but most locals will tell you to begin at the Smails Beach end. Starting here means you tackle the steepest sections right at the beginning of the walk, leaving the easy downhill cruise for the return leg.
As you set off from the Smails Beach carpark, the track wastes no time in introducing you to the elevation gain. You’ll be climbing about 200 metres over the course of the walk, and while the 4WD track provides a wide, stable base, it is far from a manicured city path. Expect a rugged, "real" New Zealand experience. In the drier months, the surface is firm gravel and dirt, but after a classic Dunedin drizzle, the track can become deeply rutted and muddy. Navigating these puddles is all part of the fun, though—just make sure you’ve got sturdy footwear!
The initial climb takes you through active farmland. You’ll likely be greeted by the local residents—hundreds of sheep who act as the track’s natural lawnmowers. During the spring, the paddocks are full of gambolling lambs, adding a layer of "Kiwi farm" charm to the epic coastal backdrop. As you gain height, the views behind you begin to open up. You’ll see the white sands of Smails Beach and Tomahawk Beach, with the distant urban silhouette of Dunedin and the iconic St Clair coastline framing the view.
Parking is available at both ends of the track. At the Smails Beach end, you can park at the Smails Beach carpark at the end of Tomahawk Road (Ocean Grove). Alternatively, you can park at the upper end of the track on Karetai Road itself. There is generally plenty of off-street parking available at the starting locations.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Megadyptes antipodes
One of the rarest penguins in the world, hoiho nest in the bushy headlands of the Otago Peninsula and are most likely seen in the late afternoon as they return to shore after a day of fishing.
Best time: Spring-Summer
Eudyptula minor
These are the world's smallest penguins, known for their unique slate-blue feathers that help them camouflage in the ocean.
Best time: Year-round
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Out and back
The terrain isn’t just open grass, though. The track eventually meanders through pockets of hardy native bush. You’ll find yourself walking past dense thickets of hebe and golden tussock, particularly in the more sheltered cliffside basins. These sections provide a lovely sensory shift, moving from the wide-open, wind-swept hills into the quiet, earthy scent of the New Zealand scrub.
While the entire walk is a visual treat, there are a few specific spots that make the Karetai Road Track truly special:
* The "Secret" Detour: About halfway along the track, keep an eye out for a short, well-trodden detour leading towards the cliff edge. This is a non-negotiable stop. It leads to an incredible viewpoint that looks eastward towards Sandfly Bay and the towering dunes of Sandymount. On a clear day, the contrast between the turquoise water and the white sand is breathtaking. * The Stone Walls: Scattered along the track are remnants of the area’s early European farming history. The hand-built stone walls are a beautiful nod to the past, constructed by early settlers using local volcanic rock. They give the landscape a heritage feel, reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands—very fitting for a city known as the "Edinburgh of the South." * The Coastal Panorama: Once you reach the upper sections near Karetai Road, take a moment to look south. The sheer scale of the Pacific Ocean is humbling. If you have binoculars, this is a great spot to look for large seabirds or even passing pods of dolphins if you are exceptionally lucky. * Gateway to More: For the truly adventurous, the Karetai Road Track serves as a link to the Highcliff Tracks. If 4 kilometres isn't enough to tire you out, you can extend your journey into a much larger loop, exploring the higher reaches of the peninsula.
The Karetai Road Track is conveniently located just a short drive from Dunedin’s city centre, making it a perfect morning or afternoon escape.
Starting from Smails Beach (The Bottom): Drive through the suburb of Ocean Grove (near Tainui/Anderson's Bay) and follow Tomahawk Road right to the very end. You’ll reach a dedicated carpark for Smails Beach. This is the most popular starting point. There is plenty of off-street parking, and you get the benefit of a beach stroll before or after your hike.
Starting from Karetai Road (The Top): If you prefer to do the downhill section first (though remember, you’ll have to climb back up!), you can drive up onto the peninsula ridge. Follow Highcliff Road and turn onto Karetai Road. Drive to the end of the sealed section where the 4WD track begins. There is room for several cars to park on the roadside here.
The Otago Peninsula is world-renowned for its biodiversity, and while this track doesn't go right into the heart of the penguin colonies, you are still in a prime wildlife zone.
Forest Birds: In the patches of native bush and gorse, you are almost guaranteed to see the friendly Piwakawaka (Fantail) flitting around your head, catching insects stirred up by your feet. You will also likely hear the melodic, bell-like notes of the Korimako (Bellbird) or see the tiny Tauhou* (Silvereye) moving through the scrub. * Coastal Specialists: Look skyward for the Red-billed gull and the large, soot-coloured Variable oystercatcher with its bright orange beak. The Rare Encounters: While they usually stick to the more secluded beaches, the endangered Hoiho* (Yellow-eyed penguin) and the Little blue penguin do live in the area. If you are walking near dawn or dusk, keep your distance and keep dogs on a lead to ensure these precious birds remain undisturbed.
The Karetai Road Track is a year-round destination, but each season brings a different flavour to the walk:
* Spring: This is arguably the most picturesque time. The paddocks are lush and green, and the presence of new lambs makes it a hit with children. * Summer: Perfect for those long, late-afternoon Dunedin sunsets. However, the track is very exposed with almost no shade, so sun protection is a must. * Autumn: The light in Otago during autumn is golden and soft—perfect for photography. The temperatures are also usually more comfortable for the uphill climb. * Winter: Expect mud! But don't let that stop you. A crisp, clear winter morning on the peninsula, with the frost crunching under your boots, is an invigorating experience.
What to pack: 1. Sturdy Boots: Especially after rain, the ruts can be tricky for sneakers. 2. Windbreaker: The Otago Peninsula is famous for its "fresh" southerly breezes. Even on a sunny day, the wind can have a bite once you reach the ridges. 3. Water & Snacks: There are no water points on the track, so bring a bottle for yourself and your dog. 4. Camera: You’ll want it for the Sandfly Bay viewpoint.
The Otago Peninsula, or Muaupoko, is a place of immense significance. Formed from the remnants of a massive, long-extinct shield volcano, the rugged topography of the area is a result of millions of years of erosion.
For Māori, particularly the Ngāi Tahu iwi, the peninsula is a rich cultural landscape. Nearby Ōtākou Marae is one of the most significant sites in the region. Historically, the area was a hub for seasonal food gathering (mahinga kai), and the tracks we walk today often follow the general routes used by early Māori and later by colonial farmers moving livestock between the harbour and the outer coast.
When you walk the Karetai Road Track, you are walking through a landscape that has transitioned from ancient volcanic slopes to dense podocarp forest, then to colonial farmland, and is now increasingly being protected for its unique ecological value.
After you’ve conquered the 200-metre climb and breathed in all that fresh sea air, you’ll likely be ready for a flat white or a hearty snack.
Since you are already on the southern side of the city, head over to St Clair (about a 10-minute drive from the Smails Beach end). It’s the hub of Dunedin’s surf culture and offers some of the best post-hike fuel in town:
* The Esplanade: A fantastic spot for Italian-style fare and great coffee right on the waterfront. It’s perfect for sitting outside and watching the surfers while you recover. * Starfish Cafe & Bar: A local favourite with a relaxed vibe and a great brunch menu. Their outdoor seating is dog-friendly, making it the perfect final stop for you and your pooch. * Tainui/Ocean Grove: If you want to stay even closer, there are often great little "hole-in-the-wall" coffee spots or dairies in the nearby suburbs where you can grab a quick treat before heading home.
The Karetai Road Track might be short, but it packs a massive punch. It’s a trail that reminds you why Dunedin is such a special place—a city where you can be standing on a wild, windswept ridge overlooking the Pacific Ocean just minutes after leaving your front door.
Haematopus unicolor
Coastal wading bird with a distinctive long orange-red bill. Found on beaches and estuaries around New Zealand.
Best time: Year-round
Chroicocephalus novaehollandiae scopulinus
This native New Zealand gull is a common sight in coastal towns, easily identified by its bright red bill, eye-ring, and legs.
Best time: Year-round
Rhipidura fuliginosa
Small insectivorous bird with distinctive fan-shaped tail. Friendly and curious, often following walkers through the bush.
Best time: Year-round
Anthornis melanura
Endemic songbird with bell-like calls. Males are olive-green with a purple head sheen; females are browner with a narrow white-yellow stripe across the cheek.
Best time: Year-round
Zosterops lateralis
Small bird with distinctive white eye-ring. Commonly seen in flocks, feeding on insects, fruit, and nectar.
Best time: Year-round