Kiwi Saddle Track (from Lakes Carpark)

Out and back

The final stretch takes you down from the high ridges to the Kiwi Saddle Hut, which sits nestled at 1,170 metres. Tucked into a protective pocket of beech forest on an open saddle, the hut feels like a hidden sanctuary. Whether you’re staying the night or just stopping for a well-earned lunch, the sense of isolation and peace here is profound.

Highlights & Must-See Features

The Kiwi Saddle Track is packed with standout moments, but a few truly define the experience:

• Mt Kuripapango Summit: Reaching the top of this 1,250m peak is your first major milestone. The transition from the steep bush climb to the wide-open alpine vistas is a classic New Zealand tramping "high."
• The Central Plateau Views: On a "bluebird" day, the sight of the volcanic giants of the Tongariro National Park in the distance is breathtaking. It puts the scale of the North Island’s geography into perspective.
• The "Beech Cathedrals": Along the Smith-Russell Track, the mountain beech stands are incredibly photogenic. The way the light filters through the small, dark leaves onto the mossy forest floor is a dream for photographers.
• Kiwi Saddle Hut: This cosy, eight-bunk hut is maintained by the Heretaunga Tramping Club. It’s a classic "backcountry" shelter. Even if you aren't staying overnight, signing the hut book and soaking in the silence of the saddle is a highlight.
• Tussock Landscapes: The golden hues of the alpine tussock against the deep greens of the beech forest create a stunning colour palette, especially in the late afternoon "golden hour" light.

Getting There

The Lakes Carpark is located at the end of Kuripapango Road, which branches off the famous Napier-Taihape Road (known locally as the 'Gentle Annie'). While the drive from Napier or Hastings is incredibly scenic, it is also remote.

The road to the carpark is unsealed and can be quite rough in places. While a standard car might manage in dry conditions, a 4WD vehicle is highly recommended, particularly after rain when the surface can become greasy or rutted.

Note on Parking: Be aware that access can occasionally change due to forestry or track maintenance. Currently, there may be a new parking area at a skid site near a closed gate at the end of Kuripapango Road. If you park here, it adds about 500 metres of walking to reach the official trailhead. Look for the DOC signage to ensure you’re in the right spot.

Wildlife Spotting

The Kaweka Forest Park is a haven for native birdlife. Because this track spans several different ecosystems—from pine and mānuka to high-altitude beech and tussock—the variety is impressive.

• Pīwakawaka (Fantail): These friendly little birds will likely follow you through the lower forest sections, flitting about to catch the insects you disturb as you walk.
• Tūī and Bellbird (Korimako): You’ll hear them long before you see them. Their melodic, bell-like songs are a constant companion in the mānuka and beech sections.
• North Island Robin (Toutouwai): Keep an eye out for these inquisitive birds near the forest floor. They are known for being quite bold and may hop right up to your boots to see what you’re up to.
• Kārearea (New Zealand Falcon): If you’re lucky, you might spot a falcon soaring over the open ridges. They are rare, but the Kawekas are one of their strongholds. Listen for their distinctive, piercing "kek-kek-kek" call.
• Kākā: While rare, these large, charismatic forest parrots are sometimes seen or heard (look for a harsh, screeching call) in the deeper stands of beech forest.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

This track is accessible year-round, but each season brings a different character:

• Spring: Expect vibrant greens and the best birdsong, but be prepared for "four seasons in one day."
• Summer: The most stable weather for enjoying the views, but the ridge is very exposed. You will need plenty of sun protection and extra water.
• Autumn: Often brings the most settled, crisp weather—perfect for photography with clear skies and golden light.
• Winter: Only for the very experienced. Snow is common on the ridges and around the hut, requiring alpine equipment and skills.

• Start Early: 7 hours is a solid day of tramping. Aim to be on the trail by 8:30 am to ensure you aren't rushing back in the fading light.
• Gear Up: This is an Advanced track. You need sturdy tramping boots with good ankle support. Always carry a waterproof jacket, warm thermal layers (even in summer), and a hat and gloves. The weather in the Kawekas can change from sunshine to a freezing southerly storm in minutes.
• Water: There is no water available until you reach the hut, and the climb to Mt Kuripapango is thirsty work. Carry at least 2-3 litres per person.
• Safety: Because of the exposure to wind on the ridges, check the mountain forecast specifically for the Kaweka Range. If high winds or heavy rain are forecast, save this hike for another day.
• Dogs & Kids: Please note that this track is not dog-friendly and, due to the significant elevation gain and exposed ridges, it is not recommended for children unless they are very experienced older hikers.

Local & Regional Context

The Kaweka Forest Park holds a special place in the heart of Hawke's Bay. For centuries, the area was known to Māori as a place for gathering resources and as a transit route between the coast and the central plateau. The name Kaweka itself is often associated with the "fanning out" of the ridges.

In more recent history, the area became a focus for early European explorers and sheep farmers, though the rugged terrain proved a formidable foe. The Napier-Taihape Road, which you travel to get here, follows an old drover's route.

The Heretaunga Tramping Club has a long history of stewardship in this park. They maintain the Kiwi Saddle Hut, and it is thanks to the efforts of volunteers and DOC that these remote backcountry assets remain available for us to enjoy. The park is also a site of significant conservation work, particularly in predator control to protect the rare species like the kārearea and the North Island brown kiwi that call these forests home.

After the Walk

After 7 hours of rugged tramping and nearly 1,000 metres of climbing, you’ll likely be dreaming of a cold drink or a hot meal. Since the Lakes Carpark is quite remote, your best options involve heading back towards the "civilisation" of Hawke's Bay.

• The Fernhill Hotel: Located on the way back towards Hastings/Napier, this is a classic, no-frills Kiwi pub. It’s a great spot to grab a cold beer and a basket of chips while you rest your legs.
• Westshore Beach Inn (Napier): If you’re heading back to Napier, this is a local favourite for hikers. They have a great outdoor area, a solid gastro-pub menu, and a rotating selection of craft beers.
• Birdwoods (Havelock North/Havelock Road): If you finish early and want something a bit more refined, Birdwoods offers incredible coffee and a sweet shop that is a dangerous place to visit when you’re "hiker-hungry."

The Kiwi Saddle Track isn't just a walk; it’s a challenge that leaves you with a deep appreciation for the wild, untamed beauty of the Hawke’s Bay high country.