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Kerr Bay Campsite, St Arnaud
4.6 km
2 hours
150 metres
If you are looking for the perfect introduction to the wild beauty of Nelson Lakes National Park without committing to a grueling multi-day mission, the Lakehead Loop Track is your best bet. Starting right from the edge of the crystal-clear Lake Rotoiti at the Kerr Bay Campsite, this 4.6km loop is a delightful slice of New Zealand’s South Island wilderness. It’s the kind of walk that makes you feel like you’ve stepped deep into a prehistoric forest, yet you’re never more than a short stroll away from a hot coffee in St Arnaud.
The trail begins by easing you into the environment via the Bellbird Walk and the Honeydew Walk. These initial sections are high-standard, well-maintained paths that serve as a "welcome mat" to the park. As you move further along the loop, the terrain becomes a bit more authentic. You’ll find yourself winding through stunning stands of red beech and mountain beech forest. The ground beneath your boots changes from gravel to a soft carpet of beech mast and moss, with the occasional tangle of tree roots to keep you on your toes.
The track is classified as moderate, and for good reason. While it’s not a mountain climb, it isn’t a flat pavement walk either. The path undulates gently, climbing over a series of low headlands and ancient glacial terraces. These brief ascents reward you with intermittent, sparkling glimpses of Lake Rotoiti through the emerald canopy. On a calm day, the water is a perfect mirror, reflecting the rugged, snow-capped peaks of the St Arnaud Range.
One of the most charming aspects of this walk is its accessibility for families. It’s a fantastic kid-friendly option because the environment is constantly changing. One minute you’re under a dense canopy, the next you’re crossing a small bridge or reading an interpretation panel about the local history. Do keep in mind that after a typical West Coast or Tasman rain spell, the track can get a bit "characterfully" muddy in places. It’s all part of the New Zealand tramping experience—just make sure you’ve got sturdy footwear!
The undisputed star of the show on the Lakehead Loop is the Honeydew. As you walk, you might notice a sweet, slightly fermented scent in the air or see small, glistening droplets hanging from fine black soot on the beech trunks. This is honeydew—a sugary excretion from native scale insects. It’s a cornerstone of this ecosystem, providing a high-energy food source for the local bird population. Seeing (and perhaps carefully tasting) these droplets is a quintessential Nelson Lakes experience.
Free, large parking lot available at Kerr Bay Campsite, which is the starting point for the track.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Best time: Year-round
Petroica australis
Friendly forest bird that often approaches walkers. Males are dark grey-black; females are paler.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
300m away
Offers a relaxing atmosphere with delicious food made from fresh, locally sourced produce, along with a full bar. Ideal for a post-hike meal.
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Loop
Another highlight is the Rotoiti Nature Recovery Project area. Thanks to intensive pest control, this forest is "louder" than many others in New Zealand. The sheer volume of birdsong is a testament to the hard work of local conservationists.
For the photographers, there are several "peek-a-boo" viewpoints where the forest opens up to reveal the lake. The contrast between the deep greens of the beech forest, the dark trunks covered in black sooty mould, and the brilliant turquoise or deep blue of the lake is spectacular. Don't forget to stop at the various interpretation panels along the way; they offer fascinating insights into how glaciers carved this landscape thousands of years ago and the diverse flora that has reclaimed the valley since.
Finding the trailhead is a breeze. If you are staying in the village of St Arnaud, you can simply walk down to the lakefront. For those driving in, head to the Kerr Bay Campsite. There is a large, free parking lot available right at the lakeside.
From the parking lot, look for the Department of Conservation (DOC) signs near the water’s edge. The loop is well-signposted, initially following the shoreline before veering into the forest. Because it’s a loop, you can technically walk it in either direction, but most locals prefer heading clockwise to get the "climbing" parts out of the way early while finishing with the easy lakeside sections.
Pack your binoculars, because the Lakehead Loop is a haven for native birdlife. The forest is absolutely teeming with Tui, Bellbirds (Korimako), and Fantails (Piwakawaka). You’ll likely hear the melodic, bell-like chiming of the Bellbirds long before you see them.
Keep a sharp eye on the forest floor or low branches for the South Island Robin (Toutouwai). These friendly little birds are notoriously curious and will often hop right up to your boots to see if you’ve kicked up any tasty insects from the leaf litter. High in the canopy, you might spot the large, heavy Kererū (New Zealand Pigeon) swooping between trees with their distinctive "whoosh-whoosh" wing beats.
On the water, look out for the New Zealand Dabchick (Weweia), a rare and stylish little water bird. If you’re incredibly lucky (and perhaps out near dusk), you might hear the shrill whistle of a Great Spotted Kiwi, though they remain very elusive. Remember, this area is a no-dog zone to protect these precious feathered residents, so please leave your four-legged friends at home.
Best time to start: Aim for early morning. Not only is the lighting better for photos, but the birds are most active during the "dawn chorus." Plus, you’ll beat any afternoon winds that might ruffle the lake’s glassy surface.
Nelson Lakes National Park holds deep significance for New Zealanders. For Māori, the lakes (Rotoiti and Rotoroa) are part of the traditional trails used by iwi (tribes) travelling between the east and west coasts. The area is rich in stories of the great explorer Rakaihautu, who is said to have dug the lakes with his ko (digging stick).
Geologically, you are standing on the edge of the Alpine Fault, one of the world's major plate boundaries. The dramatic landscape of the St Arnaud Range was sculpted by massive glaciers during the last ice age, leaving behind the deep basins that now hold the lakes.
The Rotoiti Nature Recovery Project, established in the late 1990s, is one of New Zealand's "mainland islands." It covers about 5,000 hectares of beech forest and aims to restore the ecosystem by trapping pests like stoats, rats, and wasps. When you hear the birds today, you are listening to the success of decades of conservation work.
After two hours of exploring the bush, you’ll likely have worked up an appetite. Fortunately, St Arnaud has some excellent spots to refuel, all within a few hundred metres of the trailhead:
The Lakehead Loop Track isn't just a walk; it’s an immersive experience in one of New Zealand’s most accessible and beautiful national parks. Whether you're a seasoned tramper or a family looking for a weekend adventure, this trail offers a rewarding and unforgettable slice of the South Island.
Poliocephalus rufopectus
This endemic, shy diving bird builds floating nests and is notable for carrying its young chicks on its back, though it is now rare in the South Island.
Best time: Year-round
Anthornis melanura
Endemic songbird with bell-like calls. Males are olive-green with a purple head sheen; females are browner with a narrow white-yellow stripe across the cheek.
Best time: Year-round
Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae
New Zealand wood pigeon, a large native bird with iridescent green and purple plumage. Important for seed dispersal of native trees.
Best time: Year-round
Rhipidura fuliginosa
Small insectivorous bird with distinctive fan-shaped tail. Friendly and curious, often following walkers through the bush.
Best time: Year-round
Apteryx haastii
New Zealand's largest kiwi species, the roroa is nocturnal and, while rarely seen, its distinctive call can sometimes be heard during twilight walks in the Bealey Valley.
Best time: Year-round
300m away
A convenient stop for essential groceries, fuel, coffee, and cafe meals. Also offers takeaway fish and chips during summer evenings.
400m away
A local pub offering tasty fare and a welcoming atmosphere, perfect for a casual meal and drinks after exploring the park.