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Waitawa Regional Park, Kawakawa Bay
15 km
7 hours
792 metres
Safety notice: Conditions change; check DOC/local council/weather before walking.
If you are looking for a proper, old-school Kiwi tramp that will test your legs and reward your soul, the Lilburne–Ernie's Loop is calling your name. Located in the spectacular Hunua Ranges Regional Park—Auckland’s largest native forest—this trail offers a magnificent escape into the wild. Though some older maps and regional listings occasionally confuse its location with Waitawa Regional Park, this rugged, deep-forest adventure is pure, unadulterated Hunua magic.
With 15 kilometres of ever-changing terrain and a hefty 792 metres of elevation gain, this is a challenging, full-day outing. It is a true backcountry experience designed for well-equipped hikers who do not mind getting a bit of mud on their boots.
Your journey begins at the Upper Mangatawhiri Campground, where the air is immediately thick with the scent of damp earth and native ngahere (forest). The trail sets a deceptive tone at the start, easing you in on well-formed gravel roads. This gentle gradient serves as the perfect warm-up, allowing you to find your rhythm before the real work begins.
Before long, the gravel gives way to the real heart of the Hunua Ranges: technical, root-laden single tracks. The terrain underfoot becomes a physical puzzle of twisted tree roots, muddy hollows, sudden steps, and occasional boardwalks. This loop is renowned for its sustained, lung-burning climbs and knee-shaking descents. As you power up the steep clay ridges, you will be glad for the dense forest canopy overhead, which provides welcome shade on warmer days.
Due to the technical nature of the tracks, the steep drops, and the demanding seven-hour duration, this walk is strictly not suitable for children. Additionally, because the trail weaves through sensitive conservation areas, dogs are not allowed, making it a sanctuary dedicated entirely to peace, quiet, and native wildlife.
As you push through the dense, verdant bush, the trail opens up to reveal breathtaking, grassy clearings. These elevated vantage points offer stunning, panoramic views of the shimmering Upper Mangatawhiri Reservoir below. Surrounded by rolling green hills, the deep blue water looks almost surreal against the rugged landscape. After conquering the technical climbs, pausing here to feel the cool breeze on your face is an absolute must.
Parking is available at the Upper Mangatawhiri Campground, which serves as the trailhead for Lilburne–Ernie's Loop. This is a large parking lot, but vehicle access can be dependent on ground conditions, especially during winter when the campground may close to vehicles. If vehicle access is restricted, hikers can park in the main car park and carry their gear to the campsite. Bookings for the campground are essential and can be made up to six months in advance, providing a combination code for the locked access gate. Park gates operate from 6 am to 9 pm during daylight savings and 6 am to 7 pm at other times.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae
Endemic New Zealand honeyeater with distinctive white throat tuft and iridescent plumage. Known for its complex and beautiful song.
Best time: Year-round
Rhipidura fuliginosa
Small insectivorous bird with distinctive fan-shaped tail. Friendly and curious, often following walkers through the bush.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
12km away
A delightful cafe and bar nestled in Hunua, known for its delicious burgers, pizzas, and other meals made with fresh, local ingredients, perfect for a post-hike refuel.
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Loop
The return leg on Ernie's Track can be particularly challenging, especially after rain. Be prepared for occasional stream crossings and sections of deep, squelchy mud that will test your balance and your gaiters. It is a raw, satisfying journey that leaves you feeling exhausted but utterly accomplished.
To get to the trailhead, head towards the Upper Mangatawhiri Campground located at the end of Moumoukai Road in the Hunua Ranges.
There is a large parking area at the campground, but keep in mind that vehicle access can be highly dependent on the season. During the winter months, or after periods of heavy rain, the campground gates may close to vehicles to protect the wet ground. If the inner gate is locked, do not worry—you can park your car in the main public car park just outside and carry your daypack to the trailhead on foot.
If you plan to stay overnight, bookings for the campground are essential and can be made up to six months in advance through the Auckland Council website. Upon booking, you will receive a combination code to open the vehicle access gate. Note that park gates operate on seasonal hours: they are open from 6:00 am to 9:00 pm during daylight savings, and 6:00 am to 7:00 pm during the winter months. Make sure you plan your hike with plenty of daylight to spare so you do not find your vehicle locked in for the night!
The Hunua Ranges are a vital ecological sanctuary, and the absence of dogs has allowed native birdlife to thrive. As you walk, the silence of the forest is regularly broken by a beautiful symphony of bird calls.
Keep an eye out for the cheeky pīwakawaka (fantail), which will often flutter right alongside you, using your footsteps to stir up delicious insects from the leaf litter. High up in the canopy, you will easily spot the large kererū (New Zealand pigeon) swooping heavily from branch to branch, alongside the vocal, boisterous tūī with their distinctive white throat tufts.
If you are quiet and keep your eyes peeled on the lower branches, you might spot the sweet little miromiro (North Island tomtit) or hear the haunting, nocturnal call of the ruru (morepork) if you start your walk in the dim light of dawn.
Most excitingly, the Hunua Ranges are home to a recovering population of the rare kōkako (North Island kōkako). Thanks to massive, dedicated pest-control efforts in the park, these beautiful blue-grey birds with their bright blue wattles are making a brilliant comeback. Listen closely for their incredibly distinct, organ-like song echoing through the damp valleys.
The Hunua Ranges hold deep cultural significance for local Iwi (Māori tribes) and serve as a vital environmental asset for the wider Auckland region. The park acts as a massive water catchment area, with its reservoirs supplying a significant portion of Auckland’s fresh drinking water.
Historically, these rugged hills were utilized for timber milling and farming, but today, conservation is the primary focus. The Kōkako Management Area within the park is a shining example of community-led conservation, where intensive predator trapping has successfully brought the local kōkako population back from the brink of extinction. By walking this trail, you are stepping into a living, breathing sanctuary where New Zealand's unique natural heritage is actively being protected and restored.
After seven hours of tackling steep ridges and muddy valleys, your stomach will undoubtedly be rumbling. Luckily, there are some fantastic local spots to refuel and celebrate your epic achievement:
Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae
New Zealand wood pigeon, a large native bird with iridescent green and purple plumage. Important for seed dispersal of native trees.
Best time: Year-round
Ninox novaeseelandiae
Native owl also known as Ruru. Named for its distinctive two-note call heard at night.
Best time: Year-round
Petroica macrocephala toitoi
A small, territorial bird with males featuring a distinctive black and white plumage, found throughout the North Island's forests.
Best time: Year-round
Callaeas wilsoni
An endangered forest bird, the North Island kōkako is renowned for its haunting, organ-like song and distinctive blue wattles, often heard in duets that can last for an hour.
Best time: Year-round
28km away
A rustic-chic spot in Clevedon village offering brunch, lunch, and dinner with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients, wood-fired bread, and an extensive selection of New Zealand craft beers and wines.
28km away
A vibrant culinary oasis in Clevedon, featuring a diverse menu, up to 21 craft beers on tap, a beer garden, and a family-friendly atmosphere.