Mackintosh Track (from Lakes Carpark)

Point to point

Highlights & Must-See Features

The Mackintosh Track is a highlight reel of Hawke’s Bay’s rugged interior. The absolute standout feature for many is the Mackintosh Hut. Built in 1959, this standard 8-bunk hut is a classic piece of New Zealand tramping history. Whether you’re just stopping for a quick brew and a snack or staying the night to watch the stars, the hut offers a sense of shelter and community that is central to the Kiwi backcountry experience.

Another highlight is the Tutaekuri River. In the height of summer, the cool water is a refreshing milestone, though it requires a high level of respect. The geological drama of the Kaweka Ranges is on full display here; the way the river has carved through the greywacke rock over millennia is a sight to behold.

For photographers and view-seekers, the plateau sections are where the magic happens. On a clear day, the views are nothing short of spectacular. To the east, you can see across the rolling hills of Hawke’s Bay toward the coast, while to the west, the snow-capped peaks of the Central Plateau (including the volcanoes of Tongariro National Park) often pierce the horizon. The contrast between the dark green beech forests and the golden-brown tussocks of the high country makes for incredible photos.

Getting There

Reaching the Lakes Carpark requires a bit of a drive, but the scenery along the way makes it worthwhile. From Napier, you’ll head inland on the Napier-Taihape Road (known locally as the 'Gentle Annie'). Keep an eye out for Kuripapango Road, which branches off the main highway.

Be aware that the road to the carpark is gravel. While a standard car can often make it in good conditions, a vehicle with a bit of clearance (like an SUV or 4WD) is highly recommended, especially after heavy rain when the road can become rutted.

Important Parking Note: This is a point-to-point track. Usually, hikers would end at the Mackintosh Carpark. however, due to ongoing forestry operations, the main Mackintosh Carpark is currently closed. A temporary parking location has been established at a skid site near the closed gate at the end of Kuripapango Road. This adds approximately 500 metres of walking to reach the official start/end of the track. If you are doing this as a one-way walk, you will need to arrange a vehicle shuttle or have someone pick you up at this end.

Wildlife Spotting

The Kaweka Forest Park is a haven for native birdlife, and the Mackintosh Track offers plenty of opportunities for birdwatching if you keep your ears open.

• Kererū (NZ Pigeon): These heavy-set birds are common in the lower forest sections. You’ll often hear the distinctive whoosh-whoosh of their wings before you see them.
• Tūī: Their melodic, metallic chirps are the soundtrack to the beech forest. Look for them in the canopy, especially when the kowhai or flax are in bloom nearby.
• Rifleman (Tītipounamu): New Zealand’s smallest bird. These tiny, high-pitched forest dwellers are common year-round. They move incredibly fast along tree trunks, looking like small green ping-pong balls.
• North Island Kākā: If you hear a raucous, screeching call that sounds like something out of the Jurassic period, it’s likely a Kākā. These large, playful forest parrots are occasionally seen soaring over the ridges.
• Kārearea (NZ Falcon): Keep an eye on the sky above the open plateaus. The Kārearea is New Zealand’s only falcon and is known for its incredible speed and aggressive territorial displays.
• North Island Brown Kiwi: While they are rare and strictly nocturnal, the Kawekas are a known habitat for Kiwi. If you are staying overnight at Mackintosh Hut, listen out after dark for their shrill (male) or guttural (female) whistles.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

The Kawekas are beautiful year-round, but each season brings its own set of challenges:

• Spring: Expect vibrant greens and active birdlife, but be prepared for high river levels as the winter snow melts off the higher tops.
• Summer: The best time for clear views and stable weather, but the climb can be punishingly hot. Carry at least 2-3 litres of water.
• Autumn: Often provides the most settled weather and crisp, clear days—perfect for photography.
• Winter: Only for the very experienced. Snow is common on the plateaus, and the track can become incredibly icy and dangerous.

• Start Early: With a 5.5-hour walking time and significant elevation, aim to be on the trail by 8:00 am to ensure you have plenty of daylight, especially in the shorter winter months.
• River Safety: Never cross the Tutaekuri River alone if you aren't experienced in river crossings. Check the weather forecast for the entire catchment area, not just the carpark.
• Gear Up: This is hard difficulty. You need sturdy, grip-soled tramping boots—leave the sneakers at home. Because the weather can change in minutes (sudden whiteouts and gale-force winds are common), you must carry a waterproof jacket, warm layers (merino or fleece), and an emergency shelter.
• Communication: Cell phone reception is non-existent in the valleys. Carry a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB). It’s a small investment that could save your life in this remote terrain.
• Leave No Trace: There are no rubbish bins in the backcountry. Pack out everything you pack in.

Local & Regional Context

The Kaweka Forest Park holds deep significance for the people of Hawke’s Bay. For local Māori, the Tutaekuri River is an ancestral waterway with a rich history. The name itself has various interpretations, often linked to ancient stories of travel and the resources the river provided.

In more recent history, the Kawekas were a focal point for the New Zealand Forest Service. During the mid-20th century, massive efforts were made to control erosion caused by introduced deer and goats. This led to the construction of many of the huts and tracks we use today, including the Mackintosh. You’ll notice sections of exotic pines—these were often planted in an attempt to stabilise the soil on the steep, shattered greywacke slopes.

Today, the area is a testament to conservation. Ongoing trapping and pest control efforts are helping native species like the Kiwi and Kākā make a comeback. When you walk this track, you are walking through a landscape that has been shaped by both natural forces and a century of dedicated conservation work.

After the Walk

After 5.5 hours of tramping and 800 metres of climbing, you’ll likely be dreaming of a cold drink and a hearty meal. Since the track is located deep in the ranges, you’ll have a bit of a drive back toward civilisation, but there are some legendary spots to refuel:

• The Puketapu: Located in the small village of Puketapu (about 45-50 minutes from the trailhead on your way back to Napier), this is a classic country pub. It is very hiker-friendly, with plenty of outdoor seating and a menu featuring massive burgers and great fish and chips. It’s the unofficial "finish line" for many Kaweka missions.
• Birdwoods Gallery & Sweet Shop: If you’re heading back toward Havelock North or Hastings, stop by Birdwoods in Belgrove. Their old-fashioned sweet shop is perfect for a sugar hit, and their cafe offers beautiful lunches in a stunning garden setting.
• Snapper Jack's (Napier): If you make it all the way back to the coast, nothing beats fresh fish and chips by the ocean to celebrate a successful day in the mountains.

The Mackintosh Track is a challenge that will leave your legs tired but your spirit refreshed. It's a slice of the real New Zealand—rugged, beautiful, and utterly unforgettable.