Makahu Saddle Track

Out and back

The higher you go, the more the landscape transforms. The beech forest disappears entirely, replaced by the exposed, windswept tops of the Kaweka Range. This is a world of grey shingle, hardy sub-alpine plants, and vast open skies. You’ll pass by the Dominie Bivouac, a tiny, bright orange hut that looks like a Lego brick dropped into a sea of stone. It’s a fantastic spot for a quick snack and a photo, offering a bit of shelter if the wind is starting to howl.

The final push to the Kaweka J summit is the most exhilarating part of the day. You’ll follow a poled route across rocky outcrops and through alpine herbfields. Reaching the trig station at the top is a massive "top of the world" moment. On a clear day, the 360-degree views are staggering. You can see right across the rolling hills of Hawke’s Bay to the coast, and turning around, the massive volcanic peaks of Tongariro National Park—Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro—stand like giants on the horizon of the Central Plateau.

Highlights & Must-See Features

The obvious "crown jewel" of this hike is the Kaweka J summit. At 1,724 metres, it provides a vantage point that is hard to beat anywhere else in the North Island. The sense of scale is immense; you realise just how wild and uninhabited the interior of New Zealand really is.

Another highlight is the Dominie Bivouac. While it’s too small for a comfortable overnight stay for most, its bright colour against the muted greys and greens of the mountain is iconic. It’s a testament to the rugged backcountry hut culture that New Zealand is famous for.

Keep your eyes on the ground as well as the horizon. The alpine flora here is incredibly resilient. In the summer months, you’ll see the delicate white flowers of New Zealand edelweiss, the vibrant gentians, and sturdy mountain daisies. These tiny splashes of colour amidst the harsh shingle slopes are a beautiful reminder of nature's toughness.

Getting There

Getting to the trailhead is an adventure in itself. From Napier, it’s about a 75km drive north-west, which sounds short but will take you around an hour and a half. You’ll head out through Puketapu and follow the signs toward the Kaweka Forest Park.

Be warned: Makahu Road is a classic New Zealand back-country road. A large portion of it is unsealed gravel, and it can be narrow, steep, and quite slippery when wet. There is also a river ford to cross. In fine weather, a standard car can usually manage it, but after heavy rain or during snowmelt, the water level can rise quickly. If you’re in a low-slung vehicle or a campervan, use extreme caution—in fact, campervans and caravans are not recommended for this road at all.

There’s plenty of parking at the Makahu Saddle carpark, and you’ll find long-drop toilets there and near the Makahu Saddle Hut. Just remember: there’s no mobile reception out here, so make sure you’ve downloaded your maps and told someone your intentions before you leave Napier.

Wildlife Spotting

The Kawekas are a stronghold for native birdlife, thanks to extensive conservation and trapping efforts in the area. In the lower beech forests, you are almost guaranteed to be greeted by the friendly Fantail (Piwakawaka), who will flutter around you hoping your boots kick up some tasty insects.

Listen for the melodic chime of the Tūī and the heavy whoosh-whoosh of the Kererū (New Zealand Pigeon) flying overhead. If you’re lucky, you might spot the North Island Robin (Toutouwai); these inquisitive little birds are known to hop right up to your boots if you stand still long enough.

Higher up on the rocky spurs, keep a sharp eye on the sky for the New Zealand Falcon (Kārearea). They are much rarer than the common Harrier Hawk, but they love the rocky outcrops of the Kawekas. They are fast, aggressive hunters—if you hear a high-pitched "kek-kek-kek," look up!

While you won't see them during the day, the Kawekas are also home to the North Island Brown Kiwi. Conservation groups work hard here to protect them, and while they remain elusive, just knowing you’re walking through their territory adds a bit of magic to the trek.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

• Best Seasons: Spring, Summer, and Autumn are your windows of opportunity. Summer offers the most stable weather and the best chance for those clear views, though it can be incredibly hot on the exposed shingle. Spring is wonderful for seeing the alpine flowers in bloom, while Autumn often brings crisp, clear days with less wind.
• Timing: Start early! Aim to be on the trail by 8:00 AM or 9:00 AM. This gives you plenty of time to enjoy the summit without rushing, and you’ll likely beat the clouds that often roll in during the afternoon.
• What to Bring: This is an "advanced" track, so come prepared. Wear sturdy tramping boots with good grip. Bring plenty of water (at least 2 litres per person), as there are no reliable water sources once you start climbing the spur. Pack high-energy snacks, a first aid kit, and a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB).
• Weather Considerations: The Kawekas are notorious for "four seasons in one day." Even in mid-summer, the temperature at the summit can be 10 degrees colder than at the carpark, and the wind can be ferocious. Always pack a windproof/waterproof jacket and warm layers (merino or fleece). Avoid this track in winter unless you are experienced with ice axes and crampons, as snow and ice make the shingle slopes incredibly dangerous.

Local & Regional Context

The Kaweka Range holds deep significance for the local iwi (tribes) and has been a place of resource gathering and travel for centuries. Geologically, the range is made primarily of greywacke—a hard, dark sandstone. Because the rock is so fractured, the range is prone to significant natural erosion, which creates the dramatic "shingle slides" you see today.

Historically, the area was heavily impacted by introduced species like deer and goats, which led to severe forest depletion in the mid-20th century. However, decades of dedicated forest management and pest control have seen the mountain beech forest bounce back beautifully. When you stand on the summit of Kaweka J, you’re looking at a landscape that is a survivor, a testament to New Zealand's ongoing commitment to backcountry conservation.

After the Walk

After five hours of climbing and descending, you’re going to be hungry. Since the Makahu Saddle is quite remote, your best bet for a post-hike feed is on the drive back toward Napier.

A local favourite is The Puketapu, a classic country pub located in the small village of Puketapu. It’s exactly what you want after a hard day in the hills—relaxed atmosphere, great outdoor seating, and a menu full of "hearty" options. Their burgers and chips are legendary among the Hawke’s Bay tramping community. It’s the perfect place to grab a cold drink, rest your legs, and scroll through those epic summit photos before heading back to the city.