Matemateāonga Track

Point to point

Highlights & Must-See Features

The "crown jewel" of the Matemateāonga Track is undoubtedly the optional side trip to the summit of Whakaihuwaka Maunga, also known as Mt Humphries. Standing at 732 metres, it’s not a giant by alpine standards, but its position is peerless. On a clear day, the 360-degree panorama is staggering. You can see the snow-capped cone of Te Papa-Kura-o-Taranaki/Egmont to the west, the volcanic peaks of Tongariro National Park to the east, and the endless green folds of the Whanganui National Park all around you. It is a rare spot where you can witness three national parks from a single vantage point.

Another highlight is the accommodation. The four serviced huts—Omaru, Pūteore, Puketōtara, and Ngāpūrua—are classic backcountry shelters. There is something deeply satisfying about arriving at a hut after a long day in the mud, lighting the fire, and sharing stories with the few other souls you might encounter. Puketōtara Hut, in particular, is famed for the views from its doorstep, offering glimpses of the central plateau volcanoes through the trees.

The track itself is a historical artefact. As you walk, look for the remnants of the old dray road. Imagining settlers trying to bring horses and carts through this rugged terrain adds a layer of awe to your journey.

Getting There

The adventure begins at Kohi Saddle, located at the end of Upper Mangaehu Road. To get there, you’ll need to head to Strathmore, which is about 25 minutes east of Stratford on State Highway 43—better known as the Forgotten World Highway.

From Strathmore, turn onto Upper Mangaehu Road and follow it for about 20 minutes until you reach the saddle. There is a parking area approximately 50 metres from the track entrance, clearly marked by Department of Conservation (DOC) signs. While the parking is relatively safe, as with any remote trailhead, it’s wise not to leave any valuables in your vehicle.

Because the track ends at the Whanganui River, you cannot simply walk back to your car. You will need to book a jet boat pick-up from the river end (usually dropping you at Pipiriki) and arrange a shuttle service to take you back to your vehicle at Kohi Saddle. Several local operators in Taumarunui and Pipiriki specialise in these transfers.

Wildlife Spotting

The Whanganui National Park is a stronghold for native birdlife, and the silence of the Matemateāonga allows you to hear them long before you see them.

• Tūī and Kererū: These are everywhere. You’ll hear the boisterous song of the tūī and the heavy "whoosh-whoosh" of the kererū (New Zealand pigeon) as they fly between fruiting trees.
• North Island Robin (Toutouwai): These charming, inquisitive birds are a highlight for many hikers. They often hop onto the track to investigate the insects you’ve disturbed with your boots. If you stop for a snack, don't be surprised if one comes within a metre of you.
• Fantail (Pīwakawaka): These energetic little birds will likely follow you for kilometres, flitting through the undergrowth.
• Whio (Blue Duck): Keep an eye out near the river end. These rare, white-water specialists are a treasure of the Whanganui.
• North Island Brown Kiwi: While you are unlikely to see one during the day, keep your ears open at night at the huts. Their shrill, piercing whistles are a hauntingly beautiful sound of the New Zealand night.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

• Summer offers the best chance of dry feet and clear views from Mt Humphries.
• Spring sees the forest in bloom, with vibrant greens and flowering native plants.
• Autumn often brings stable, settled weather and crisp mornings, though the days are shorter.

Timing: Aim to start your walk by 9:00 AM at the latest on the first day. While the gradient is easy, the days are long (averaging 10–12km between huts), and you want plenty of time to navigate any windfalls or muddy patches before dusk.

• Water Treatment: While the huts have tanks, it is always recommended to boil or filter your water.
• Mud Protection: High gaiters are essential. Without them, your socks will be ruined within the first few kilometres.
• Communication: There is zero mobile coverage. Carrying a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is non-negotiable for a remote mission like this.
• Supplies: You must carry all your food and a lightweight stove. There are no shops in the wilderness!

Weather Considerations: This is a rainforest environment. Even in summer, a southerly front can bring cold, wet conditions. Always check the MetService forecast for "Whanganui National Park" before heading in.

Local & Regional Context

The Matemateāonga Track is steeped in the history of the iwi (tribes) of the Whanganui River. For centuries, this route served as a vital inland link between the coast and the river, used for trade and travel. The name itself carries the weight of history, referring to the misty ridges and the connection to the land.

In the early 20th century, European settlers attempted to turn this ancient trail into a dray road to open up the interior for farming. However, the rugged terrain and the relentless "Whanganui soft rock" (papa) made maintenance impossible, and the forest eventually reclaimed the road. Today, the track is part of the Whanganui National Park, established in 1986, which protects one of the largest remaining areas of lowland forest in the North Island.

While the full 4-day trip is for the experienced, the section from Kohi Saddle to Omaru Hut (about 1.5 to 2 hours one way) is a popular trip for local school groups and families. It’s a great way to introduce kids to the bush without the commitment of a week-long expedition.

After the Walk

Once you’ve been whisked down the river by jet boat and shuttled back to civilization, you’re going to be hungry.

If you are heading back through Stratford, stop at one of the local cafes for a "middy" (mid-afternoon) treat. Colonel Malone’s in Stratford is a local favourite—it’s got a great historic vibe and serves up hearty meals that are perfect for hungry trampers.

Alternatively, if your shuttle takes you through the "Republic" of Whangamomona, you absolutely must stop at the Whangamomona Hotel. It is one of the most iconic pubs in New Zealand. Grabbing a burger and a cold drink on their front porch while looking out at the sleepy, historic village is the perfect way to decompress after four days in the deep green. Just don’t forget to get your passport stamped while you're there!