Mount French Track

Out and back

Once you emerge onto the exposed ridges, the world expands. The final push to the summit of Mount French (1305m) is a heart-pumper, but as the ground levels out, the sheer scale of the landscape takes your breath away. You are standing on a natural balcony overlooking the entire Lake Brunner basin, with the jagged spine of the Southern Alps cutting across the horizon to the east and the Tasman Sea shimmering in the far west.

Highlights & Must-See Features

The absolute standout of this hike is the summit panorama. From the 1305m peak, you get a 360-degree view that few other tracks in the region can match. The deep blue of Lake Brunner (Kotuku Whakaoka) looks like a fallen piece of sky nestled among the dark green hills.

Another highlight is the botanical transition. It is fascinating to watch the flora change so dramatically over the course of a few hours. The ancient kaikawaka trees, with their spiralling bark and prehistoric appearance, are a particular favourite for photographers.

For those who love a bit of "rock hopping," the upper ridges offer fantastic geological interest. The weathered greywacke formations and the hardy alpine plants clinging to the crevices make for some incredible close-up shots. And, of course, there is the sense of isolation. Unlike the more famous Great Walks, you are likely to have long stretches of the Mount French Track entirely to yourself, allowing for a deep connection with the silence of the mountains.

Getting There

The trailhead is located on the Kumara-Inchbonnie Road, approximately 1.5km from the small settlement of Mitchells. If you are coming from Greymouth or Hokitika, follow the signs toward Lake Brunner and Moana.

Parking: There isn’t a formal paved car park, but there is a wide gravel shoulder directly opposite the trailhead with enough space for several vehicles. Be sure to tuck your car well off the road, as this can be a busy route for local logging trucks and milk tankers. The track entrance is clearly marked with a standard Department of Conservation (DOC) sign.

Wildlife Spotting

The West Coast is a haven for native birdlife, and the Mount French Track is no exception. As you start in the lowland forest, keep an ear out for the melodious song of the Bellbird (Korimako) and the rhythmic "woosh-woosh" of the Kererū (New Zealand pigeon) as they fly between the fruit-bearing trees.

Tūī are common here, often seen darting through the canopy, while the friendly Fantail (Pīwakawaka) will likely follow you for the first kilometre, hoping your boots stir up a few tasty insects.

Once you break out into the sub-alpine zone, keep your eyes on the sky. The Kea, the world’s only alpine parrot, is an occasional visitor to these heights. They are highly intelligent and inquisitive, often appearing just as you sit down for lunch at the summit. Remember to never feed them, no matter how much they "beg"! You may also spot a Weka scurrying through the tussock—these cheeky, flightless birds are famously bold, so keep a close eye on your sandwich.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

The Mount French Track is open year-round, but each season brings its own set of rules:

• Summer: The best time for clear views and stable weather. However, the West Coast sun is fierce, and there is very little shade once you are above the bushline.
• Autumn: Often brings the most settled weather patterns and crisp, clear air—perfect for photography.
• Winter/Spring: This track can be covered in snow and ice during the colder months. Only experienced trampers with crampons and ice axes should attempt the summit in these conditions. The track can also be very muddy after spring rains.

• Start Early: With an 8-hour return time, you want to hit the trail by 9:00 am at the latest to ensure you aren't descending in the dark.
• Footwear: Sturdy, waterproof tramping boots with good ankle support are non-negotiable. The terrain is too rough for sneakers.
• Gear: Even if it looks sunny at the bottom, the mountain tops can be shrouded in cloud in minutes. Pack a waterproof jacket, a warm hat, and gloves.
• Water: There are no reliable water sources once you start the main ascent. Carry at least 2–3 litres per person.
• Fitness: This is a "Hard" rated track. It is not suitable for young children or those with limited mobility. Because of the steep drops and technical nature of the ridge, it is also not recommended for dogs.

Local & Regional Context

The Lake Brunner area holds deep significance for Poutini Ngāi Tahu, the guardians of the West Coast. Historically, this region was a vital part of the pounamu (greenstone) trails, where Māori travelled through the mountain passes to trade this precious stone. The lake itself, Kotuku Whakaoka, is named after the white heron, a bird of great spiritual importance.

In more recent colonial history, the area around Inchbonnie and Mitchells was shaped by the timber and gold industries. You can still feel that pioneer spirit in the air—the sense of people working alongside a powerful and often unpredictable natural environment. Today, much of the area is protected as part of the Department of Conservation estate, ensuring that the ancient forests of Mount French remain untouched for future generations.

After the Walk

After 8 hours on your feet and over 1000 metres of climbing, you will have worked up a massive appetite. Fortunately, there are some fantastic local spots to refuel:

• Lake Brunner Eco Lodge Restaurant (0.5km away): For something a bit special, head just down the road. They offer a refined, seasonal menu that focuses on local produce. It’s communal and relaxed, but you must book in advance if you aren't staying there.
• Hotel Lake Brunner Restaurant & Bar (1.5km away): Located in Moana, this is a classic Kiwi pub with a historic 1930s vibe. Their beer-battered fish and venison dishes are legendary—perfect for a post-hike celebration with a view of the lake.
• Theatre Royal Hotel Restaurant & Bar (17km away): If you are heading back toward Kumara, this restored gold miners' hotel is a must-visit. Sit by the roaring log fire and enjoy some world-class West Coast hospitality.

The Mount French Track is a challenging undertaking, but it offers a profound sense of accomplishment. Standing at the summit, looking out over the wild West Coast, you’ll understand exactly why we call this place paradise.

1.5km away

A historic hotel from the 1930s in Moana, offering a hearty menu with local favourites like beer-battered fish and venison, perfect for a post-hike meal and a drink.