Mount Hikurangi - Te Ara ki Hikurangi

Out and back

Highlights & Must-See Features

The absolute crown jewel of this hike is the whakairo (carvings) located near the hut. Erected to celebrate the new millennium, the central carving represents Maui himself, with the surrounding pillars representing his descendants. Seeing these massive artworks silhouetted against the morning mist is an experience you won't find anywhere else in the world.

Another highlight is the sheer geological drama of the summit. Because Hikurangi is not volcanic, its jagged greywacke peaks feel sharper and more ancient than the cones of the central plateau. On a clear day, the sense of isolation is immense—you are standing on the sacred guardian of the East Coast, looking out over a land that looks much the same as it did centuries ago.

Of course, the sunrise is the primary drawcard. Being the first person on the mainland to see the sun break over the horizon is a spiritual experience. The light hits the summit of Hikurangi while the valleys below are still draped in indigo shadow, creating a spectacular display of pinks, oranges, and golds.

Getting There

To find the trailhead, you’ll need to head to the township of Ruatoria on State Highway 35. From there, turn onto Tapuaeroa Valley Road and follow it inland for about 25 kilometres. The road becomes unsealed and can be narrow in places, so take your time.

The road ends at Pakihiroa Station. There is a formal car park located just below the station manager’s house. Please note that there is no public vehicle access beyond this point. Because you are crossing private land owned by Ngāti Porou, it is essential to contact Te Runanganui o Ngāti Porou before your trip to seek permission and check on current track conditions. This isn't just a courtesy—it’s a vital part of respecting the mana (prestige) of the mountain.

Wildlife Spotting

As you traverse the different altitudinal zones, keep your ears open for the distinct sounds of the New Zealand bush. In the lower farm and forest sections, you’ll likely be accompanied by the friendly Fantail (Pīwakawaka), flitting about to catch the insects you disturb. The chime of the Tūī and the heavy whoosh of the Kererū (New Zealand Pigeon) are common soundtracks in the forested pockets.

If you are lucky, you might spot the Kākā, our large forest parrot, known for its boisterous calls. For the truly eagle-eyed, keep a lookout for the New Zealand Falcon (Kārearea), which is known to hunt in the open sub-alpine areas. Higher up near the rocky bluffs, there have been rare sightings of the Rock Wren (Pīwauwau)—New Zealand’s only true alpine bird. At night, if you’re staying at the hut, listen for the haunting "mopoke" call of the Morepork (Ruru) echoing through the valleys.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

The best seasons for this trek are Summer and Autumn. During these months, you have the best chance of clear skies and manageable temperatures. However, even in the height of summer, Mount Hikurangi creates its own weather.

• Timing: If you’re doing this as a day trip, you must start at the crack of dawn (or earlier). A 14.5-hour return trip means you’ll likely be finishing in the dark if you don't start by 5:00 AM.
• Gear: This is expert terrain. You need sturdy tramping boots with excellent grip for the scree, a personal locator beacon (PLB), and high-quality thermal layers.
• Water: There are limited water sources on the ridge, so carry at least 3 litres per person.
• Weather: Be prepared to turn back. The track has not been maintained since early 2020, meaning some sections are overgrown or eroded. If fog rolls in, navigation on the unmarked summit scree becomes dangerous. High winds can also make the summit ridge treacherous.
• Restrictions: Please remember that dogs, guns, and mountain bikes are strictly prohibited on Pakihiroa Station. This is also not a kid-friendly walk due to the extreme duration and the technical nature of the summit climb.

Local & Regional Context

Maunga Hikurangi is the sacred mountain of the Ngāti Porou iwi. According to tradition, when Maui fished up the North Island (Te Ika-a-Māui), Hikurangi was the first part to emerge from the ocean. It is said that Maui’s waka (canoe), the Nukutaimemeha, remains petrified on the mountain to this day.

This cultural connection is what makes the walk so unique. You aren't just climbing a pile of rock; you are walking through a living history book. The land is part of Pakihiroa Station, which is incorporated under the iwi, meaning the farming operations and conservation efforts are deeply intertwined with the spiritual guardianship of the mountain.

After the Walk

After 14.5 hours on your feet, you’re going to be starving. Head back into Ruatoria to refuel. While it’s a small, quiet town, the local hospitality is legendary.

Check out the local cafes or the Ruatoria Hotel for a classic Kiwi pub meal. There’s nothing quite like a hot basket of chips or a hearty steak to celebrate conquering the sacred peak. If you're heading back towards Gisborne, stop by the Tokomaru Bay Four Square for a classic New Zealand ice cream—you’ve certainly earned the extra scoops!

Taking on Te Ara ki Hikurangi is a massive undertaking, but for those with the skills and the heart for it, it provides a connection to the land and the sky that is simply unmatched in Aotearoa.