Onepoto Caves Track

Out and back

Beyond the subterranean thrills, the track offered spectacular "topside" views. Several lookouts along the ridge provided a bird’s-eye perspective of Lake Waikaremoana. From these vantage points, you could see the sheer scale of the bluffs and begin to comprehend the magnitude of the landslide that created the landscape. Looking out over the deep blue water, framed by the skeletal remains of drowned trees near the shore, was a photographer's dream.

Getting There

While the track is now closed, the Onepoto area remains a key gateway to the Lake Waikaremoana region. Historically, access was via State Highway 38, about an hour’s drive from Wairoa. The road is notorious for being winding and partially unsealed, requiring a slow and steady approach.

There were two main parking areas used by hikers. The Lake Carpark and the Spillway Carpark both served as trailheads, clearly signposted to lead visitors into the bush. For those staying nearby, the Waikaremoana Holiday Park offered a convenient base, with parking available near the lakeside. As with many remote New Zealand trailheads, the golden rule was always to leave no valuables in the car, as these areas were isolated.

Today, while the caves are off-limits, the Onepoto area is still the starting point for the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk, one of New Zealand’s premier multi-day tramps.

Wildlife Spotting

The forest surrounding the Onepoto Caves is a sanctuary for native birdlife. Even if you aren't underground, the canopy above is teeming with activity.

• Tūī: These are the most common residents. You'll hear their complex melodies—a mix of bell-like notes, clicks, and wheezes—long before you see them. Look for their iridescent blue-black feathers and the distinctive white tuft under their throats.
• Kererū: The heavy beating of wings often announces the arrival of the New Zealand wood pigeon. These large, green-and-white birds are often seen perched precariously on thin branches, feasting on berries.
• North Island Robin (Toutouwai): These friendly little birds are incredibly bold. If you stand still, they will often hop right up to your boots to see if you’ve stirred up any insects in the leaf litter.
• Kākā: Keep an ear out for a harsh, screeching call overhead. These large forest parrots are occasional visitors to the Onepoto area and are a treat to see in flight.
• Fantail (Pīwakawaka): Ever-present and inquisitive, these birds will often "escort" you along the forest edge, darting about to catch the insects you disturb as you walk.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

Te Urewera is a region of extremes, and while the track was open year-round, each season brought a different flavour to the experience.

• Spring & Summer: These were the most popular times to visit. The forest is at its most vibrant, and the warmth makes the cool interior of the caves a refreshing escape. However, summer is also when the "Children of the Mist" (the fog) can roll in rapidly, changing visibility in minutes.
• Autumn: This was perhaps the most beautiful time. The air is crisp, the birdlife is busy preparing for winter, and the light over Lake Waikaremoana takes on a golden, ethereal quality.
• Winter: A winter visit meant preparing for mud and dampness. The caves could become quite drippy, and the track would get slippery.

What to bring (historically): Even on an "easy" 2-hour walk, the remote nature of Te Urewera demanded respect. Hikers were encouraged to carry a waterproof jacket (it rains frequently here), sturdy footwear with good grip for the mossy rocks, and, most importantly, a reliable torch with spare batteries for the cave sections.

Local & Regional Context

The history of the Onepoto Caves is inextricably linked to the birth of the lake itself. Approximately 2,200 years ago, a massive earthquake triggered a gargantuan landslide from the Ngamoko Range. This mountain of rock crashed down, damming the Waikaretaheke River and creating the lake we see today. The Onepoto Caves are essentially the gaps left between the "shrapnel" of that ancient event.

For the local Ngāti Ruapani and Tūhoe people, the caves are far more than a geological curiosity. They are sites of immense cultural significance. One of the most famous legends involves Tuwai, a warrior chief of Ngāti Ruapani. During times of conflict, Tuwai used the caves as a strategic refuge. The narrow, labyrinthine entrances meant that he could defend the position against superior numbers, famously slaying enemies one by one as they tried to squeeze through the tight openings. This history gives the area an atmosphere of tapu (sacredness) and respect.

After the Walk

Since the Onepoto area is quite remote, "refuelling" usually involves a bit of a drive or a pre-packed picnic.

1. Waikaremoana Holiday Park Store: Located nearby at Home Bay, this is the go-to spot for a cold drink, an ice cream, or some basic supplies. It’s the social hub for hikers and fishers in the area and a great place to swap stories about the lake.
2. Wairoa Cafes: If you’re heading back toward the coast, the town of Wairoa offers several classic Kiwi cafes and bakeries. A hot pie and a flat white are the traditional rewards for any New Zealand tramp.
3. Picnic at the Lakefront: Many visitors choose to simply find a spot along the Onepoto shoreline. With the bluffs towering above and the crystal-clear water at your feet, there isn't a better dining room in the world.

While the Onepoto Caves Track is currently resting and closed to the public, its legacy as a place of geological wonder and ancestral strength remains. It stands as a reminder of the power of the New Zealand landscape—a land that is constantly moving, changing, and telling stories to those who stop to listen.