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Mount Robert Carpark, St Arnaud
5.6 km
2 hours 30 minutes
620 metres
If you are looking for a classic New Zealand alpine experience that offers world-class views without the soul-crushing verticality of some of our steeper Southern Alps tracks, Paddy’s Track in Nelson Lakes National Park is your perfect match. Nestled in the heart of the South Island’s high country near the charming village of St Arnaud, this 5.6km trail is a masterclass in diverse landscapes.
The journey begins at the Mount Robert Carpark, a high-altitude starting point that gives you a "leg up" into the alpine zone. While many hikers use Paddy’s Track as the descending leg of the popular Mount Robert Circuit, walking it as a point-to-point ascent towards Bushline Hut and Relax Shelter is a fantastic way to soak in the scenery at a more relaxed pace.
As soon as you step off the gravel and onto the trail, you are instantly enveloped by the cool, mossy embrace of a lush native beech forest. The air here is different—damp, earthy, and filled with the scent of hoheria and leaf litter. The track starts with a steady but manageable incline, winding its way through the trees. Unlike its neighbor, the notoriously steep Pinchgut Track, Paddy’s offers a much gentler gradient. It’s the kind of walk where you can actually maintain a conversation with your tramping buddies without gasping for air every three steps.
Because of this kinder incline, Paddy’s Track is exceptionally kid-friendly. It serves as a brilliant "introduction to tramping" for younger explorers, providing enough challenge to feel like an adventure while offering frequent "look-at-that" moments to keep motivation high.
After about 45 minutes of climbing through the forest, the canopy begins to thin. The tall beech trees give way to sub-alpine scrub, and this is where the magic really happens. The forest "pops" open, and suddenly, you are standing on a ridge looking down at the glistening, cobalt-blue expanse of Lake Rotoiti. The transition from the shaded green world of the forest to the wide-open, wind-swept alpine environment is exhilarating. The trail continues to traverse the hillside, crossing several small, stable scree gullies that give you a taste of the rugged geology of the St Arnaud Range. By the time you reach the iconic, bright orange Bushline Hut, you’ll feel like you’ve climbed to the top of the world.
Parking is available at the Mount Robert Carpark, located approximately 4.9 km along the unsealed Mount Robert Road, which turns off SH 63. Paddy's Track specifically starts about 500 metres before the main car park, with an overflow car park often available near this lower trailhead. Facilities at the main car park include toilets and a small day shelter. Due to past incidents, it is advisable to lock away all valuables and ensure your vehicle is secure.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Nestor notabilis
Intelligent alpine parrot endemic to the South Island. Known for curiosity and problem-solving abilities.
Best time: Year-round
Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae
Endemic New Zealand honeyeater with distinctive white throat tuft and iridescent plumage. Known for its complex and beautiful song.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
5km away
A well-regarded lodge in St Arnaud village offering a full bar and restaurant with delicious food made from fresh, locally sourced produce. Perfect for a post-hike meal or a relaxing drink.
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Point to point
The undisputed crown jewel of Paddy’s Track is the panoramic view of Lake Rotoiti. From the higher elevations, the lake looks like a giant sapphire dropped into a valley of velvet-green mountains. On a clear day, you can see the tiny ripples of boats near the St Arnaud jetties and the long, straight lines of the glacial valley stretching into the distance.
Another highlight is Bushline Hut. Even if you aren't staying the night, the hut is a fantastic destination. It’s a classic DOC (Department of Conservation) serviced hut, and its deck offers one of the best lunch spots in the Tasman region. Standing there, looking across at the rugged peaks of the Travers Range, you truly feel the scale of the New Zealand wilderness.
For those with an eye for geology, the scree gullies are a fascinating feature. These slopes of loose, weathered rock are characteristic of the "shaky" nature of the South Island’s mountain ranges. They add a rugged, textured feel to the walk and provide excellent photo opportunities where the grey rock contrasts sharply with the golden tussocks and blue sky.
Finally, the botanical transition is a must-see. Watch how the vegetation changes as you gain altitude. You’ll move from the tall red and silver beech forest into a world of hardy dracophyllum (turpentine grass), alpine daisies, and thick carpets of golden tussock. It’s a living lesson in New Zealand’s unique ecology.
To find the trailhead, head to the alpine village of St Arnaud, located about an hour and a half drive from either Nelson or Blenheim. From the village, follow the signs toward Mount Robert Road.
Be aware that the last 4.9km of the road is unsealed. While it is generally well-maintained and accessible for most standard vehicles, it can be narrow and winding in places, so take it slow. The road climbs significantly, giving you a great head start on the elevation gain.
Paddy’s Track actually begins about 500 metres before you reach the main, top carpark. There is a smaller overflow parking area near this lower trailhead where you can leave your vehicle. The main Mount Robert Carpark at the very end of the road has toilets and a small day shelter if you need to prep your gear before starting.
A quick word of advice: This is a popular spot, and unfortunately, remote carparks can sometimes attract unwanted attention. Ensure you lock your vehicle, wind up the windows, and—most importantly—take all valuables with you or leave them at your accommodation in town.
Thanks to the Rotoiti Nature Recovery Project, a massive conservation effort involving intensive pest control, the birdlife along Paddy’s Track is nothing short of spectacular.
Keep your ears open for the melodic, bell-like notes of the Korimako (Bellbird) and the complex, soulful song of the Tūī. These birds are common throughout the beech forest sections. You are also very likely to be joined by a friendly Pīwakawaka (Fantail); these little birds love to follow hikers, flitting around your feet to catch the tiny insects stirred up by your boots.
As you break out into the open alpine sections, keep a sharp eye on the sky and the rocky outcrops. This is Kea territory. The world’s only alpine parrot is famous for its intelligence and cheeky personality. You might hear their distinctive, high-pitched "kee-aa" call before you see them. While they are a joy to watch, remember to never feed them—it's vital for their survival that they remain wild.
You might also spot the Miromiro (Tomtit), a small bird with a distinctive large head and a "pet-pet" call, or hear the chatter of Kākāriki (Red-crowned parakeet) zooming through the canopy. The forest here is alive, and the lack of predator noise makes the birdsong feel incredibly immersive.
Nelson Lakes National Park holds deep cultural significance. To the local Māori iwi (tribes), the lakes are part of the traditional trails used to travel between the East and West Coasts. The area is rich in stories of the great explorer Rakaihautu, who is said to have dug the beds of Lake Rotoiti (the little lake) and Lake Rotoroa (the long lake) with his ko (digging stick).
Geologically, you are standing on the edge of the Alpine Fault, one of the world’s most active plate boundaries. The rugged, shattered nature of the rock along Paddy’s Track is a direct result of the immense tectonic forces pushing the Southern Alps upward. The valleys below were carved out by massive glaciers during the last ice age, which explains the "U" shape of the lake basin you see from the lookout points.
In more recent history, the Mount Robert area was a pioneer site for New Zealand skiing. Before the days of luxury resorts, locals would lug their gear up these very slopes to reach the primitive rope tows. While the ski field is no longer operational, that spirit of adventure remains a core part of the St Arnaud community.
After 2.5 hours of alpine air and 620 metres of climbing, you’ll have worked up a serious appetite. Luckily, St Arnaud has some fantastic spots to refuel.
The Alpine Lodge is the quintessential hiker’s hangout. Located just 5km from the trailhead, it features a warm, woody interior and a great outdoor deck. Their restaurant serves hearty, locally sourced meals that are perfect for replenishing your energy. Whether it’s a big burger or a fresh salad, it always tastes better after a hike. They also have a full bar if you fancy a celebratory local craft beer.
If you’re more in the mood for coffee and cake, The Clinker Café is a must-visit. This European-style cafe is famous for its excellent coffee and a cabinet full of homemade sweets and savoury treats. If you happen to be there when they are firing up their wood-fired pizza oven, you’re in for a real treat. It’s a very relaxed spot where you’ll often see fellow hikers comparing photos and shaking the dust off their boots.
Paddy’s Track is more than just a walk; it’s a condensed version of everything that makes New Zealand tramping special—ancient forests, friendly birds, and views that stay with you long after you’ve returned to sea level.
Petroica macrocephala
The Tomtit is a small, inquisitive forest bird, with males having striking black and white plumage and a yellow breast.
Best time: Year-round
Rhipidura fuliginosa
Small insectivorous bird with distinctive fan-shaped tail. Friendly and curious, often following walkers through the bush.
Best time: Year-round
Nestor meridionalis
Large forest parrot found in native bush. Loud and social, increasingly common in predator-controlled sanctuaries.
Best time: Year-round
Anthornis melanura
Endemic songbird with bell-like calls. Males are olive-green with a purple head sheen; females are browner with a narrow white-yellow stripe across the cheek.
Best time: Year-round
5km away
A European-style cafe in St Arnaud offering a full menu with daily specials, cakes, sweets, and excellent coffee. Also known for wood-fired pizzas by arrangement.