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Blackball (Eastern trailhead)
55 km
72 hours
1947 metres
If you are looking for a journey that captures the raw, untamed essence of the South Island, look no further. The Paparoa Track is New Zealand’s 10th Great Walk, and unlike some of the more manicured trails, this one feels like a true expedition into the wild. Spanning 55 kilometres across the rugged Paparoa Range, this multi-day adventure connects the historic mining town of Blackball in the east to the dramatic limestone coast of Punakaiki in the west.
Whether you are a seasoned tramper or a mountain biking enthusiast, the Paparoa Track offers a breathtaking blend of alpine vistas, ancient rainforests, and soaring limestone karst landscapes. It is a trail that demands respect—thanks to its "expert" difficulty rating and significant 1947-metre elevation gain—but the rewards are unparalleled.
The Paparoa Track is typically completed over three days for walkers (or two for fit mountain bikers). Starting from the Smoke-ho car park near Blackball, the journey begins with a climb that wastes no time. You’ll find yourself on the historic Croesus Track, a route once carved out by gold miners. The air here is thick with the scent of damp earth and moss, and as you cross the wire suspension bridge over Smoke-ho Creek, you can almost feel the history of the region.
The first day is a steady, sustained climb through lush mixed podocarp and beech forest. As you gain altitude, the trees begin to shrink, replaced by subalpine scrub and eventually the open tussock lands surrounding Ces Clark Hut. Reaching the hut is a milestone; on a clear day, the views across the Grey River/Māwheranui to the east are spectacular, and if the weather gods are smiling, you might even spot the distant, snowy peak of Aoraki / Mt Cook shimmering on the horizon.
Day two is arguably the highlight of the entire experience. You’ll traverse the ridgeline of the main Paparoa Range towards Moonlight Tops Hut. This section feels like walking on the spine of the world. The track often skirts the edge of near-vertical cliffs, offering dizzying views down into the Pike Stream and out toward the shimmering Tasman Sea. The sense of exposure and scale here is immense—it’s just you, the wind, and the vast West Coast wilderness.
The eastern trailhead is at the Smoke-ho car park, located at the end of Blackball Road, approximately 8 km north of Blackball. The last 8 km to the car park is on a steep and sometimes narrow gravel road, which may be challenging for two-wheel-drive vehicles. Camping is not permitted at the Smoke-ho car park. Many hikers opt to leave their car at the Punakaiki end and arrange a shuttle to the Blackball start point due to the linear nature of the track and the remote access to Smoke-ho car park.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae
Endemic New Zealand honeyeater with distinctive white throat tuft and iridescent plumage. Known for its complex and beautiful song.
Best time: Year-round
Anthornis melanura
Endemic songbird with bell-like calls. Males are olive-green with a purple head sheen; females are browner with a narrow white-yellow stripe across the cheek.
Best time: Year-round
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Point to point
The final leg is a long, winding descent from the tops back into the forest. You’ll enter the upper Pororari River valley, where the vegetation shifts back to ancient podocarp forest. The track follows an old route through a spectacular gorge, where towering beech trees and northern rātā cling to limestone cliffs. The final stretch along the Pororari River is a gentle, scenic end to a challenging journey, finishing at the coastal village of Punakaiki.
The Paparoa Track is a photographer’s dream, but there are a few standout features you simply cannot miss:
The Paparoa Track is a point-to-point trail, which means some logistics are required.
The eastern trailhead is at the Smoke-ho car park, located about 8 km north of Blackball. Be aware that the last leg of the drive is on a steep, narrow gravel road. While most cars can make it, it can be a bit hairy for low-slung two-wheel-drive vehicles after heavy rain.
Because the track ends in Punakaiki, about a 90-minute drive from the start, most hikers find it easiest to leave their vehicle at the Punakaiki end and book a commercial shuttle to take them to the Blackball start point. This allows you to walk back to your car at your own pace. Camping is not permitted at the Smoke-ho car park, so plan to arrive ready to hit the trail.
The West Coast is a stronghold for New Zealand’s native birdlife, and the Paparoa Track is no exception. Because of the varying altitudes, you’ll encounter different species as you climb.
The Paparoa Track is open year-round, but your experience will change significantly depending on the season:
The Paparoa Track is more than just a scenic walk; it is a place of deep significance. For Ngāi Tahu, the local Māori iwi (tribe), the area was a source of pounamu (greenstone) and a route for travelling between the coast and the inland valleys.
The track also serves as a memorial. It was built as a tribute to the 29 men who lost their lives in the Pike River Mine tragedy in 2010. A side track (the Pike29 Memorial Track) connects to the main Paparoa Track, leading to a memorial at the mine portal. This context gives the walk a reflective, somber beauty, reminding visitors of the region's long and often difficult history with coal and gold mining.
The geology here is also world-class. The Paparoa Range is made of ancient granite and gneiss, topped with younger layers of limestone. This is what creates the "karst" landscape—the dramatic cliffs, sinkholes, and caves that make the West Coast so visually distinct from the rest of New Zealand.
Once you emerge at the Punakaiki end, tired and hungry, you’ll want to celebrate.
The Paparoa Track is a challenging, soul-stirring journey. It’s not a walk to be taken lightly, but for those who venture into this "expert" terrain, it offers a connection to the wild that few other places can match.
Rhipidura fuliginosa
Small insectivorous bird with distinctive fan-shaped tail. Friendly and curious, often following walkers through the bush.
Best time: Year-round
Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae
New Zealand wood pigeon, a large native bird with iridescent green and purple plumage. Important for seed dispersal of native trees.
Best time: Year-round
Hymenolaimus malacorhynchos
An endangered native duck uniquely adapted to fast-flowing rivers, often seen foraging among the rocks.
Best time: Year-round
Nestor notabilis
Intelligent alpine parrot endemic to the South Island. Known for curiosity and problem-solving abilities.
Best time: Year-round