Paparoa Track

Point to point

The final leg is a long, winding descent from the tops back into the forest. You’ll enter the upper Pororari River valley, where the vegetation shifts back to ancient podocarp forest. The track follows an old route through a spectacular gorge, where towering beech trees and northern rātā cling to limestone cliffs. The final stretch along the Pororari River is a gentle, scenic end to a challenging journey, finishing at the coastal village of Punakaiki.

Highlights & Must-See Features

The Paparoa Track is a photographer’s dream, but there are a few standout features you simply cannot miss:

• The Moonlight Escarpment: This is the "hero" section of the track. Walking along the massive limestone escarpment provides some of the most dramatic cliff-side views in the country.
• Lone Hand Rock Outcrop: Keep an eye out for this distinctive geological feature during your descent through the Pororari Valley. It stands like a sentinel overlooking the forest.
• The Sunset at Moonlight Tops: If you stay overnight at Moonlight Tops Hut, make sure to head outside for sunset. Watching the sun dip into the Tasman Sea while you stand high on an alpine ridge is a core memory in the making.
• The Pororari River Gorge: The final section of the track winds through a prehistoric-looking gorge with massive limestone walls and turquoise water. It feels like stepping back into the Gondwana era.
• Mining Relics: Along the Croesus Track section, keep an eye out for remnants of the gold-mining era, including old huts and machinery parts that the forest is slowly reclaiming.

Getting There

The Paparoa Track is a point-to-point trail, which means some logistics are required.

The eastern trailhead is at the Smoke-ho car park, located about 8 km north of Blackball. Be aware that the last leg of the drive is on a steep, narrow gravel road. While most cars can make it, it can be a bit hairy for low-slung two-wheel-drive vehicles after heavy rain.

Because the track ends in Punakaiki, about a 90-minute drive from the start, most hikers find it easiest to leave their vehicle at the Punakaiki end and book a commercial shuttle to take them to the Blackball start point. This allows you to walk back to your car at your own pace. Camping is not permitted at the Smoke-ho car park, so plan to arrive ready to hit the trail.

Wildlife Spotting

The West Coast is a stronghold for New Zealand’s native birdlife, and the Paparoa Track is no exception. Because of the varying altitudes, you’ll encounter different species as you climb.

• Kea: These cheeky, highly intelligent mountain parrots are often seen (and heard!) around the alpine huts, particularly Moonlight Tops. Keep a close eye on your gear; they love to investigate anything shiny or rubbery.
• Whio (Blue Duck): These rare, white-water specialists live in the fast-flowing rivers of the Pororari. If you’re quiet near the river crossings in the lower valley, you might spot one perched on a rock.
• Kōmako (Bellbird) and Tūī: You will hear their melodic song throughout the forest sections. They are common year-round and provide a beautiful soundtrack to the climb.
• Pīwakawaka (Fantail): These friendly little birds will likely follow you along the lower sections of the track, darting around to catch the insects you stir up as you walk.
• Kererū: Look for these heavy, iridescent wood pigeons in the lower podocarp forests, often seen performing their clumsy, stalling dives between trees.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

The Paparoa Track is open year-round, but your experience will change significantly depending on the season:

• Spring & Summer: The most popular time. Days are longer, and the rātā flowers can turn parts of the forest red. However, this is also when the West Coast's famous "sandflies" are most active at lower elevations.
• Autumn: Often brings more stable, settled weather and crisp, clear views.
• Winter: A magical time for experienced hikers. The tops can be dusted in snow, and the air is incredibly clear. However, you must be prepared for freezing temperatures and potential snow-drifts.

• Prepare for the "Wet" Coast: This region receives massive amounts of rainfall. Even if the forecast looks good, always pack high-quality waterproof layers. Fog can roll in quickly on the tops, reducing visibility to just a few metres.
• Start Early: Especially on Day 1. The climb from Smoke-ho to Ces Clark is sustained, and you’ll want plenty of time to enjoy the views once you break out of the bushline.
• Book Ahead: There is no camping allowed on this track. You must book your bunks in the Great Walk huts (Ces Clark, Moonlight Tops, and Pororari) well in advance via the Department of Conservation website.
• Water: While the huts have water tanks, it is always a good idea to carry a couple of litres with you, especially during the ridge traverse where there are no natural water sources.

Local & Regional Context

The Paparoa Track is more than just a scenic walk; it is a place of deep significance. For Ngāi Tahu, the local Māori iwi (tribe), the area was a source of pounamu (greenstone) and a route for travelling between the coast and the inland valleys.

The track also serves as a memorial. It was built as a tribute to the 29 men who lost their lives in the Pike River Mine tragedy in 2010. A side track (the Pike29 Memorial Track) connects to the main Paparoa Track, leading to a memorial at the mine portal. This context gives the walk a reflective, somber beauty, reminding visitors of the region's long and often difficult history with coal and gold mining.

The geology here is also world-class. The Paparoa Range is made of ancient granite and gneiss, topped with younger layers of limestone. This is what creates the "karst" landscape—the dramatic cliffs, sinkholes, and caves that make the West Coast so visually distinct from the rest of New Zealand.

After the Walk

Once you emerge at the Punakaiki end, tired and hungry, you’ll want to celebrate.

• Punakaiki Tavern: A classic West Coast pub. It’s the perfect place for a celebratory burger and a cold pint of local beer while you look out toward the ocean.
• Pancake Rocks Cafe: Located right across from the famous Blowholes, this is a great spot for a coffee and a snack before you head back to reality.
• The Blackball Hilton: If you have time before or after your shuttle, stop in at this legendary hotel in Blackball. It’s full of character, history, and is a great place to try some of the famous Blackball Salami.

The Paparoa Track is a challenging, soul-stirring journey. It’s not a walk to be taken lightly, but for those who venture into this "expert" terrain, it offers a connection to the wild that few other places can match.