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Moana, Lake Brunner
1.2 km
48 minutes
5 metres
If you find yourself on the rugged, mist-shrouded West Coast of the South Island, you’ll likely hear the locals talk about "The Lake." They’re referring to Lake Brunner (Moana), a place where the water is often as still as a mirror and the kahikatea trees stand like ancient sentinels along the shore. While many come here for the world-class trout fishing or the boating, there is a hidden gem tucked away right at the edge of the Moana township that offers a perfect slice of West Coast wilderness without the need for heavy tramping boots or an all-day commitment.
The Rakaitane Track is that rare kind of trail: short enough for a quick leg-stretch, easy enough for the toddlers and grandparents, yet beautiful enough to leave a lasting impression on even the most seasoned hiker.
Stepping onto the Rakaitane Track feels like stepping into a different world. The 1.2-kilometre loop is a gentle, 45-minute journey that manages to pack an incredible amount of ecological diversity into a very small area. The trail begins at the lakeside car park on Ahau Street, right at the western end of Moana. From the moment you leave your car, the air feels cooler and smells of damp earth and crushed ferns.
The adventure kicks off with a highlight: a sturdy, stable suspension footbridge that spans the Arnold River (Kotuku Awa). As you walk across, you’ll likely want to pause in the middle. Looking one way, you see the vast, shimmering expanse of Lake Brunner; looking the other, you see the tranquil river winding its way into the forest. On a calm day, the reflections here are world-class, with the dark, tannin-stained water acting as a perfect mirror for the sky and the surrounding greenery.
Once you’ve crossed the bridge, the track climbs ever so slightly. Don’t let the word "ascend" worry you—with a total elevation gain of only 5 metres, it’s more of a gentle rise than a climb. You’ll first wander through a vibrant kamahi forest. These trees are known for their gnarled, twisted trunks and lush canopies. As you move higher onto a natural terrace, the forest shifts. Suddenly, you are surrounded by regenerating kahikatea, New Zealand’s tallest native tree.
The ground here is often carpeted in thick, spongy mosses and delicate ferns. It’s this section that gives the track its "fairytale" reputation. In fact, local children and visitors have often built a 'fairy village' along the path, leaving small stone arrangements and tiny stick houses that add a touch of magic to the walk. The path is well-formed and high-quality, making it a very comfortable stroll that feels much more remote than it actually is.
Parking is available at the lakeside car park on Ahau Street, located beyond the motor camp on the western end of Moana township, near the boat ramp. It is advisable to arrive early on weekends as the car park can become busy.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae
Endemic New Zealand honeyeater with distinctive white throat tuft and iridescent plumage. Known for its complex and beautiful song.
Best time: Year-round
Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae
New Zealand wood pigeon, a large native bird with iridescent green and purple plumage. Important for seed dispersal of native trees.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
500m away
A charming café located directly opposite the historic Moana railway station, known for its delicious coffee, homemade baking, and friendly atmosphere, offering magnificent views of Lake Brunner and the surrounding mountains.
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Loop
While the entire walk is a scenic delight, there are a few specific spots you shouldn’t miss:
Getting to the Rakaitane Track is straightforward, making it an easy addition to any West Coast road trip.
If you are staying in Moana, simply head to the western end of the township. Drive past the motor camp on Ahau Street until you reach the lakeside car park near the boat ramp. The car park is spacious, but because this is such a popular spot for boaties and families, it can fill up quickly on sunny weekends or during the summer holidays. We recommend arriving a little earlier in the morning to snag a spot and enjoy the track before the midday sun (or the afternoon crowds) arrive.
The West Coast is a haven for birdlife, and the Rakaitane Track is no exception. Because the forest is so lush and varied, it provides a fantastic habitat for many of our native feathered friends.
Top Tip: Bring a pair of binoculars and stop moving for a minute or two near the kahikatea groves. The birds are much more likely to show themselves once they realise you aren't a threat.
The Rakaitane Track is a true all-seasons trail, but each season brings its own character:
The area around Lake Brunner and the Arnold River holds deep significance. To Māori, the river is known as Kotuku Awa, named after the beautiful White Heron. Historically, this region was a key part of the network used by Māori travelling across the Alps for pounamu (greenstone).
In colonial times, the area became a hub for timber milling and later, the railway. You can still feel that history in the Moana township today. The forest you walk through on the Rakaitane Track is a precious remnant of the vast podocarp forests that once covered the entire West Coast. Seeing the "succession" of the forest—from younger kamahi to the ancient rimu—is like reading a living history book of New Zealand’s botanical heritage.
Once you’ve finished your loop and crossed back over the suspension bridge, you’ll likely have worked up an appetite. Moana might be small, but it has some fantastic spots to refuel:
The Rakaitane Track is more than just a walk; it’s an invitation to slow down and appreciate the quiet, magical corners of the South Island. Whether you’re a local looking for a Sunday stroll or a tourist wanting to see the "real" West Coast, this little loop is sure to capture your heart.
Anthornis melanura
Endemic songbird with bell-like calls. Males are olive-green with a purple head sheen; females are browner with a narrow white-yellow stripe across the cheek.
Best time: Year-round
Rhipidura fuliginosa
Small insectivorous bird with distinctive fan-shaped tail. Friendly and curious, often following walkers through the bush.
Best time: Year-round
Gallirallus australis
Flightless rail known for bold, inquisitive behaviour. Found mainly in the South Island and some offshore islands.
Best time: Year-round
Ardea alba modesta
A large, elegant white heron, highly revered in Māori culture as a symbol of rarity and beauty.
Best time: Spring-Summer
Apteryx haastii
New Zealand's largest kiwi species, the roroa is nocturnal and, while rarely seen, its distinctive call can sometimes be heard during twilight walks in the Bealey Valley.
Best time: Year-round
5km away
Offering an extensive menu from light snacks to classic Kiwi pub fare and three-course meals, this historic hotel provides a warm atmosphere with a roaring fire and a sundeck with spectacular lake views, perfect for post-hike refreshments.