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Tongariro National Park, Whakapapa Village
66.2 km
120 hours
2730 metres
Safety notice: Conditions change; check DOC/local council/weather before walking.
If you’re looking for a tramping experience that truly captures the raw, volcanic heart of the North Island, the Round the Mountain Track is the ultimate challenge. While many visitors flock to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing for a day trip, the true explorers head further south to circumnavigate the mighty Mount Ruapehu. This 66.2-kilometre loop is more than just a hike; it’s a multi-day odyssey through a landscape that feels like it belongs on another planet.
Nestled within the dual UNESCO World Heritage-listed Tongariro National Park, this track is a masterclass in ecological diversity. Over the course of four to six days, you’ll transition from lush, ancient forests to stark, wind-swept deserts. It is a journey of contrasts, demanding respect, endurance, and a solid set of tramping boots.
Setting off from Whakapapa Village, the Round the Mountain Track immediately draws you into its rhythm. Because it’s a loop, you can technically tackle it in either direction, but many prefer to head clockwise. The initial stretches wind through tranquil mountain beech forests and vibrant tussocklands, where the air is crisp and the sound of birdsong follows you.
However, don't let the gentle start fool you. This is an Expert-level track. As you navigate the flanks of Mount Ruapehu, the terrain becomes increasingly rugged. You’ll find yourself traversing ancient lava ridges—reminders of the powerful eruptions that have shaped this mountain over millennia. The track is famously undulating, featuring a continuous series of ascents and descents that add up to a total elevation gain of 2730 metres. Your legs will certainly feel the burn, but the ever-changing vistas make every centimetre of climbing worth it.
One of the most defining challenges of this walk is the river crossings. Unlike the more manicured "Great Walks," the Round the Mountain Track requires you to cross several unbridged rivers, including the Whakapapaiti and Mangaturuturu. This demands good judgment and river-crossing skills, especially after heavy rain when these streams can rise rapidly.
As you move to the eastern side of the mountain, the landscape undergoes a dramatic transformation. You’ll enter the Rangipo Desert, a high-altitude, barren expanse of wind-sculpted sands and volcanic grit. It is a remote, starkly beautiful environment that feels incredibly isolated. Walking through the desert with the towering peak of Ruapehu on one side and the vast Central Plateau on the other is an experience you won’t find anywhere else in New Zealand.
Parking is available in Whakapapa Village, notably opposite the Visitor Centre or just above the Whakapapa Holiday Park.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Apteryx mantelli
The kiwi is New Zealand's national icon, a nocturnal and flightless bird known for its long, sensitive beak with nostrils at the tip, used to sniff out food.
Best time: Year-round
Hymenolaimus malacorhynchos
Also known as Whio, featured on the NZ $10 note. Found on fast-flowing mountain rivers.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
200m away
A vibrant food and coffee cart in Whakapapa Village, renowned for quality brews, tasty toasties, and baked treats, ideal for a quick pre-hike stop.
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Loop
The sheer scale of this track means the highlights come thick and fast. For the photographers among us, the waterfalls are a major drawcard. Taranaki Falls is a spectacular sight early in the journey, where water tumbles 20 metres over the edge of an ancient lava flow. Later, you’ll encounter Waitonga Falls, the highest waterfall in the park at 39 metres, framed by stunning sub-alpine scenery.
The Rangipo Desert itself is a highlight. Its "moonscape" appearance is surreal, particularly at sunrise or sunset when the light catches the volcanic minerals in the soil. It’s a place of quiet, haunting beauty that provides a sharp contrast to the lush forests of the western side.
For those who appreciate geological drama, the glacial river gorges and alpine tarns (small mountain lakes) offer intimate glimpses into the mountain’s icy history. The view from the Waihohonu Hut area, looking towards both Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe, is often cited as one of the best in the country.
The adventure begins at Whakapapa Village, the main gateway to Tongariro National Park.
By Car: Whakapapa Village is located off State Highway 48. If you’re driving from Auckland, it’s about a 4.5-hour journey; from Wellington, expect it to take around 4 hours.
Parking: You’ll find plenty of parking within the village. The most convenient spots for long-term trampers are opposite the Whakapapa Visitor Centre or just above the Whakapapa Holiday Park. Be sure to lock your vehicle and avoid leaving any valuables inside.
While the landscape is the star of the show, the park is also home to some of New Zealand’s most precious birdlife. Keep your eyes peeled and your ears open for:
Pro-tip: The best time for birdwatching is usually early morning or late afternoon when the forest is at its most vocal.
The Round the Mountain Track is a serious undertaking that requires careful planning.
Tongariro National Park is a place of immense spiritual and cultural importance. In 1887, the core of the park was gifted to the people of New Zealand by Te Heuheu Tūkino IV, the Paramount Chief of Ngāti Tūwharetoa, to ensure the sacred peaks were protected forever. This was the first national park in New Zealand and only the fourth in the world.
As you walk, you are treading on land that is tapu (sacred) to Māori. The mountains—Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro—are seen as ancestors. This cultural heritage, combined with the park's world-class geological features, earned it the status of a dual UNESCO World Heritage site. You aren't just walking around a volcano; you are moving through a living cultural landscape.
Once you emerge from the wilderness back into Whakapapa Village, you’ll likely be craving a warm meal and a celebratory drink. Here are our top picks for a post-hike refuel:
The Round the Mountain Track is a true test of endurance, but for those who answer the call, it offers a deep connection with New Zealand’s wild heart. It’s a walk you’ll never forget.
Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae
Endemic New Zealand honeyeater with distinctive white throat tuft and iridescent plumage. Known for its complex and beautiful song.
Best time: Year-round
Rhipidura fuliginosa
In Māori mythology, the pīwakawaka is considered a messenger, sometimes bringing news of death.
Best time: Year-round
Petroica macrocephala
The Tomtit is a small, inquisitive forest bird, with males having striking black and white plumage and a yellow breast.
Best time: Year-round
Anthus novaeseelandiae
This small, ground-dwelling bird of open country is easily recognised by its constant tail-wagging and distinctive 'pi-hoi-hoi' call.
Best time: Year-round
Falco novaeseelandiae
Also known as Kārearea. Fast and agile raptor found in both forest and open country.
Best time: Year-round
Charadrius bicinctus
This small shorebird is identifiable by the distinctive double black band across its chest during breeding season.
Best time: Spring-Summer
500m away
Located within New Zealand's highest hotel, this restaurant and bar offers a modern menu for dinner, featuring local wines and craft beers, with a cozy atmosphere and a roaring fire.
600m away
A bistro-style restaurant in the historic Chateau, known for its excellent and imaginative food, perfect for a post-hike meal.