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Mount Robert Carpark, St Arnaud
14 km
6 hours
360 metres
If you are looking for a quintessential New Zealand tramping experience that perfectly balances accessibility with a true sense of backcountry isolation, the Speargrass Track in Nelson Lakes National Park belongs at the top of your list. Located just a short drive from the alpine village of St Arnaud, this 14km out-and-back journey is a local favourite for a reason. It’s a trail that invites you to slow down, breathe in the crisp mountain air, and lose yourself in the enchanting hush of the ngahere (forest).
Whether you are a seasoned tramper looking for a weekend "leg-stretcher" or a family eager to introduce the kids to the joys of hut life, the Speargrass Track offers a rewarding adventure through some of the most beautiful beech forest in the Tasman region.
The journey begins at the Mount Robert Carpark, a high-altitude starting point that treats you to expansive views of Lake Rotoiti before you’ve even laced up your boots. Unlike many trails that start with a daunting incline, the Speargrass Track begins with a gentle, winding descent. This initial section allows your legs to warm up as you drop down toward the valley floor, surrounded by the silvery trunks of native beech trees.
As you reach the valley, the trail begins to follow the path of the Speargrass Creek. For much of the walk, you’ll be meandering through the forest, occasionally climbing 50 to 100 metres above the water level. These slight elevations provide wonderful vantage points where you can peer down at the crystal-clear creek bubbling over moss-covered stones.
While the Department of Conservation classifies this as an intermediate (moderate) grade, don’t let the "well-graded" description fool you into thinking it’s a paved park path. This is a classic Kiwi bush track. You will encounter plenty of tree roots—nature’s own staircases—which can be a bit slippery after a West Coast rain. There are also several unbridged stream crossings and rocky patches that require a bit of nimble footwork. It’s the kind of terrain that keeps you engaged, making the 14km distance feel like a genuine exploration rather than just a walk.
The final hour of the trek toward the hut involves a steady, honest climb. As the forest begins to thin, the dense canopy gives way to a wide, open tussock clearing. It is here, nestled at 1060 metres above sea level, that you’ll find the welcoming sight of Speargrass Hut. Emerging from the bush into this alpine fringe feels like stepping into another world, where the hum of the forest is replaced by the whistling wind and the grand scale of the surrounding mountains.
The Speargrass Track commences from the Mount Robert Carpark, located at the end of Mount Robert Road, approximately 4.9 km from State Highway 63, west of St Arnaud. The carpark is equipped with public toilets. Due to the isolated nature of the carpark, it is advisable not to leave valuables in vehicles, as theft can occur. A bag storage facility is available at the Rotoiti/Nelson Lakes Visitor Centre in St Arnaud. Note that the gate at the bottom of Mount Robert Road may be locked during icy winter conditions.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Rhipidura fuliginosa
Small insectivorous bird with distinctive fan-shaped tail. Friendly and curious, often following walkers through the bush.
Best time: Year-round
Acanthisitta chloris
The tītitiponamu is New Zealand's smallest native bird, often seen flitting quickly up tree trunks and branches.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
4.9km away
Offering a captivating dining experience at the gateway to Nelson Lakes National Park, this lodge provides a cozy atmosphere, stunning views, and a menu featuring expertly prepared small plates and hearty mains. It also has a full bar.
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Out and back
The absolute standout of this hike is the Speargrass Hut itself. This 12-bunk serviced hut is a classic example of New Zealand backcountry architecture. Even if you aren't staying the night, it’s the perfect spot to boil the billy, enjoy your lunch, and chat with other trampers. The views from the hut deck are spectacular, looking out over the tussock flats toward the rugged peaks of the Robert Ridge.
For photography enthusiasts, the section where the track skirts the Speargrass Creek offers endless opportunities. The play of light through the beech leaves—often referred to as "dappled light"—creates a magical atmosphere, especially in the early morning. The contrast between the deep greens of the moss and the grey, weathered stones of the creek bed is quintessentially "Nelson Lakes."
Another highlight is the sense of transition. You move from the high-altitude carpark through deep, sheltered forest and finally out into the sub-alpine tussock. This variety ensures that the scenery never feels repetitive, and for kids (it’s a very kid-friendly track for those aged eight and up), the changing terrain provides plenty of "mini-adventures" along the way.
To reach the trailhead, head west from St Arnaud on State Highway 63 and turn onto Mount Robert Road. Follow this for about 4.9km until you reach the end of the road. Be aware that the road is steep and unsealed in places; while generally fine for 2WD vehicles, the gate at the bottom of the road is often locked during the winter months if snow or ice makes the climb dangerous.
The Mount Robert Carpark is well-equipped with public toilets, but a word of caution for all visitors: because of its isolated location, it can unfortunately be a target for opportunistic theft. Do not leave any valuables in your car. If you have extra luggage, the Rotoiti/Nelson Lakes Visitor Centre in St Arnaud offers a convenient bag storage facility for a small fee—it’s well worth the peace of mind.
The Nelson Lakes National Park is a haven for native birdlife, and the Speargrass Track is no exception. As you walk, you’ll likely be joined by the inquisitive Fantail (pīwakawaka), which loves to follow hikers to feast on the tiny insects stirred up by your footsteps.
Keep an ear out for the high-pitched "seet" of the Rifleman (tītitipounamu), New Zealand’s smallest bird, or the melodic song of the South Island Robin (toutouwai). If you sit quietly near the creek or the hut, you might even spot a Kererū (New Zealand Pigeon) clumsily landing in a nearby tree, or hear the screech of a Kākā echoing through the valley.
Pro Tip: The birds are most active in the early morning and late afternoon. If you’re staying overnight at the hut, take five minutes at dawn to just sit on the deck and listen to the "dawn chorus"—it’s a sound you won’t soon forget.
The Speargrass Track is a true four-season trail, with each time of year offering a different flavour:
Best time to start: Aim to be on the trail by 9:00 am. This gives you plenty of time to reach the hut, enjoy a long lunch, and return before the light fades in the forest, which can happen surprisingly early in the afternoon.
What to pack: Even in summer, the weather in Nelson Lakes can change in an instant. Always carry a waterproof jacket, a warm fleece or wool layer, and plenty of water (at least 2 litres). While the creek water looks tempting, it’s always safest to treat water before drinking or use the tank water at the hut. Sturdy footwear with good grip is essential for navigating those slippery tree roots!
Nelson Lakes National Park holds deep significance for the local iwi (tribes), particularly Ngāti Apa ki te Rā Tō. The lakes, Rotoiti (Little Lake) and Rotoroa (Long Lake), are the heart of the region, formed by the Great Salmon Glacier thousands of years ago.
The area was a traditional travelling route for Māori moving between the East and West Coasts. Today, the park is a focal point for conservation. You might notice "stoat traps" along the side of the track; these are part of a massive community and DOC effort to protect our native birds from introduced predators. By walking here, you are stepping into a landscape that is being actively restored to its former glory.
After six hours on the trail, you’ll have worked up a serious appetite. Fortunately, the village of St Arnaud is just a few minutes away and has some excellent spots to refuel:
The Speargrass Track is more than just a walk; it’s an immersion into the rugged beauty of the South Island’s high country. Whether you’re there for the birds, the beech trees, or the mountain views, it’s a journey that will leave you feeling refreshed and reconnected with nature.
Best time: Year-round
Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae
New Zealand wood pigeon, a large native bird with iridescent green and purple plumage. Important for seed dispersal of native trees.
Best time: Year-round
Petroica australis
Friendly forest bird that often approaches walkers. Males are dark grey-black; females are paler.
Best time: Year-round
Nestor meridionalis
Large forest parrot found in native bush. Loud and social, increasingly common in predator-controlled sanctuaries.
Best time: Year-round
4.9km away
A combined general store and cafe offering takeaway food, a café menu, and coffee, suitable for a quick bite or supplies before or after your hike.
4.9km away
A family-friendly tavern providing pub-style meals, coffee, a bar, and snacks. Known for takeaway fish and chips on Friday and Saturday nights.