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Kerr Bay, St Arnaud
11 km
5 hours
1030 metres
If you’re looking for a hike that perfectly captures the rugged, vertical beauty of the South Island, look no further than the St Arnaud Range Track. Situated in the heart of the Nelson Lakes National Park, this trail is a quintessential New Zealand tramping experience. It isn’t just a walk; it’s a climb that takes you from the tranquil, bush-fringed shores of Lake Rotoiti right up into the dramatic alpine zone.
Whether you are a local weekend warrior or a visitor wanting to see the "backbone" of the Tasman region, this track delivers some of the most spectacular 360-degree vistas in the country. But be warned: with over 1000 metres of elevation gain in just 5.5 kilometres (one way), your legs will certainly know they’ve been for a workout by the end of the day!
The journey begins at the eastern edge of Kerr Bay, where the water of Lake Rotoiti is often so still it acts as a perfect mirror for the surrounding mountains. From the trailhead, you are immediately plunged into a lush world of native beech forest. The first section of the track is a fascinating walk through time, as you traverse ancient moraine terraces. These giant mounds of earth and rock were deposited thousands of years ago by the massive glaciers that carved out the lake and the surrounding valleys.
As you start the ascent, the track wastes no time in heading skyward. This is a steady, demanding climb, but the forest provides plenty of distractions. You’ll notice the vegetation shifting as you gain altitude—a classic New Zealand ecological transition. On the lower slopes, you’ll be walking beneath towering red beech, but as the air cools and the soil thins, these give way to silver beech and eventually the hardy, stunted mountain beech.
After about two hours of weaving through the roots and the cool shade of the bush, the trees begin to thin out. This is the moment every hiker waits for: breaking out above the bushline. At approximately 1400 metres, you’ll reach the famous Parachute Rocks. This is a fantastic place to stop for a breather and a snack. The rocks get their name from a distinctive parachute-shaped gravel scree nearby, and the view from here is nothing short of world-class. You can look straight down onto the deep blue expanse of Lake Rotoiti and see the tiny boats leaving white wakes across the water.
Ample parking is available at the eastern end of Kerr Bay on Lake Rotoiti, conveniently located near the Department of Conservation (DOC) campground. Follow Kerr Bay Road to the lake edge; parking can be found near the jetties. A large information board with a map of local tracks is situated at the eastern end, adjacent to the DOC campground.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Anthornis melanura
Endemic songbird with bell-like calls. Males are olive-green with a purple head sheen; females are browner with a narrow white-yellow stripe across the cheek.
Best time: Year-round
Rhipidura fuliginosa
In Māori mythology, the pīwakawaka is considered a messenger, sometimes bringing news of death.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
500m away
A local hub offering takeaway food, a cafe menu, excellent coffee, and a fish 'n' chip shop on weekends. Perfect for a quick bite before or after your hike.
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Out and back
For those with energy left in the tank, the track continues for another 30 minutes of steep climbing to the very crest of the St Arnaud Range. Reaching the ridge at over 1650 metres is an exhilarating experience. The environment here is true alpine—exposed, windy, and dominated by golden snow tussocks and hardy herb fields. Standing on the ridge, you feel like you’re on the roof of the world, with the landscape falling away in every direction.
The absolute standout of this hike is the panoramic 360-degree view from the ridge crest. It is rare to find a day hike that offers such a comprehensive look at the upper South Island. To the east, you can trace the long ribbon of the Wairau Valley; to the north, the rugged hills of Mt Richmond Forest Park; to the west, the wild peaks of Kahurangi National Park and the Buller Valley; and to the south, the endless, jagged interior of Nelson Lakes National Park.
If you are hiking in late spring or early summer, keep your eyes on the ground as much as the horizon. The alpine herb fields burst into life with a stunning display of gold and white wildflowers. These delicate plants thrive in the harsh conditions and provide a beautiful contrast to the grey rock and golden tussock.
Another highlight is Parachute Rocks itself. It’s a natural balcony that offers a sense of scale you just don’t get from the lakeshore. It’s the perfect spot for a summit photo if you don’t feel like pushing all the way to the ridge, or a great "halfway" victory point.
Getting to the trailhead is straightforward. From the village of St Arnaud, follow Kerr Bay Road right down to the lakefront. There is ample parking at the eastern end of Kerr Bay, conveniently located near the Department of Conservation (DOC) campground and the jetties.
Before you head off, take a moment to check the large information board at the eastern end of the bay. It features a detailed map of the local tracks and often has the latest weather or track alerts. The track is well-signposted from this point—just look for the signs pointing toward the St Arnaud Range.
The Nelson Lakes National Park is a haven for native birdlife, and the St Arnaud Range Track offers a great cross-section of species. In the lower beech forest, the air is often filled with the chime of the Bellbird (Korimako) and the melodic call of the Tūī. You’ll almost certainly be greeted by the inquisitive New Zealand Fantail (Pīwakawaka), which loves to follow hikers to snatch up the insects stirred up by their boots.
Keep a sharp eye out for the South Island Robin (Toutouwai) near the track edge—they are famously bold and may even hop onto your boots if you stand still long enough. If you’re lucky, you might spot the tiny Rifleman (Tītitipounamu), New Zealand’s smallest bird, flitting through the canopy.
Once you break out into the alpine zone, keep your ears open for a loud, screaming "kee-aa!" The Kea, the world’s only alpine parrot, occasionally visits the ridge. While they are a joy to watch, remember to keep a close eye on your gear; these "clowns of the mountain" are notoriously cheeky and love to investigate (or dismantle) backpacks and snacks!
Please note that this trail is not dog-friendly (to protect the native birdlife) and is generally not suitable for young children due to the steepness and exposure.
The St Arnaud area holds great significance. To Māori, the lakes are known as Rotoiti (Little Lake) and Rotoroa (Long Lake). Legend tells of the great explorer Rākaihautū, who hollowed out the lake beds with his ko (digging stick). The area has long been a place of mahinga kai (food gathering) and a vital link between the east and west coasts.
Geologically, you are standing on a landscape shaped by fire and ice. The Alpine Fault runs right through this region, and the mountains you are climbing are being pushed up by the same tectonic forces that shape the entire South Island. The moraine terraces you walk over at the start are the "footprints" of the last ice age, showing just how high the ice once reached.
After a 1000-metre descent, your knees will likely be screaming for a rest and your stomach for a feed. Luckily, St Arnaud has some fantastic spots to refuel:
The St Arnaud Range Track is a challenge, but the reward of standing on that ridge, looking out across the vast wilderness of the Nelson Lakes, is something you’ll never forget. It’s New Zealand hiking at its finest.
Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae
Endemic New Zealand honeyeater with distinctive white throat tuft and iridescent plumage. Known for its complex and beautiful song.
Best time: Year-round
Petroica australis
Friendly forest bird that often approaches walkers. Males are dark grey-black; females are paler.
Best time: Year-round
Nestor notabilis
Intelligent alpine parrot endemic to the South Island. Known for curiosity and problem-solving abilities.
Best time: Year-round
Acanthisitta chloris
The tītitiponamu is New Zealand's smallest native bird, often seen flitting quickly up tree trunks and branches.
Best time: Year-round
500m away
A cafe open throughout the day, ideal for a casual meal or coffee. Check directly for current opening hours.
600m away
Situated within Alpine Lodge, this restaurant offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner, including hearty mains and takeaway pizzas. It also features a full bar in a cozy atmosphere with stunning natural views.
10km away
A historic inn about a 10-minute drive from St Arnaud, offering a restaurant and a unique, charming atmosphere. Known for its historical significance and resident ghost.