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Tawanui, Catlins
12 km
4 hours 30 minutes
450 metres
If you are looking for a pocket of New Zealand that feels truly untouched, where the forest is deep and the views are hard-won, then The Wisp Loop Walk in the Catlins is calling your name. Tucked away in the southeastern corner of the South Island, the Catlins is a region known for its rugged coastlines and hidden waterfalls, but The Wisp Loop takes you inland into the wild heart of the Catlins Conservation Park.
This isn’t just a stroll through the park; it’s a demanding 12-kilometre journey that rewards the adventurous with some of the most expansive vistas in the region. Whether you are a local Southlander looking for a weekend challenge or a tourist wanting to escape the crowded hotspots of Queenstown, this trail offers a slice of New Zealand wilderness that remains authentically "off the beaten track."
Stepping onto the trail at the Tawanui Campsite, you are immediately enveloped by the cool, damp embrace of the silver beech forest. The air here is different—thick with the scent of moss and damp earth, and alive with the constant chatter of native birds. The first leg of the journey often skirts the tranquil Catlins River, providing a gentle soundtrack of flowing water as you navigate the forest floor.
However, don't let the serene start fool you. The track is classified by the Department of Conservation (DOC) as an 'Advanced: Tramping track', and it earns that title fairly quickly. As you begin to move away from the river, the terrain shifts. You’ll find yourself moving from the soft, leaf-littered ground of the beech forest into areas of exotic forestry. Here, the landscape opens up slightly as you walk beneath towering radiata pine, Douglas fir, and eucalyptus trees. These sections follow forestry roads, which offer a brief respite from the technical footwork required in the bush, but the climb is steady and will certainly get your heart rate up.
The real challenge—and the real magic—lies in the undulating terrain. You will encounter short, steep grades that require a bit of grunt, and sections of the track are heavily strewn with tree roots. It’s the kind of walk where you need to keep an eye on your feet as much as the canopy. This isn't a manicured gravel path; it’s a proper New Zealand tramp. You’ll feel every bit of the 450-metre elevation gain, but the sense of isolation and the "untamed" feel of the track make every step worth it.
Ample parking is available at the Tawanui Campsite, which serves as a primary trailhead for the Catlins River-Wisp Loop Track. This Department of Conservation (DOC) campsite offers 60 non-powered/tent sites and provides essential facilities including flush toilets, water on tap (boil before use), rubbish bins, and picnic tables. Alternatively, a picnic area with a toilet is located at The Wisp end of the track. Access to Tawanui Campsite is via Catlins Valley Road or Morris Saddle Road from Owaka Valley, while The Wisp is accessed via Chloris Pass Road.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Mohoua ochrocephala
Also known as the yellowhead, this small, insect-eating bird is a threatened species unique to the South Island forests.
Best time: Year-round
Acanthisitta chloris
New Zealand's smallest native bird, the male rifleman is distinguished by its bright green plumage.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
7km away
A friendly, family-orientated restaurant in Owaka (approximately 7km from Tawanui Campsite) offering a comprehensive menu of home-cooked meals, hot and cold drinks, and a licensed bar. Known for its cosy timber and brick decor with a large open fire.
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Loop
The absolute crown jewel of this loop is the side trip to Rocky Knoll on the Rata Range. If you have the energy (and you should save some!), this is a non-negotiable detour. As you climb toward the knoll, the forest thins out, giving way to sub-alpine vegetation.
Once you reach the summit of Rocky Knoll, you are standing at the highest accessible point in the Catlins. On a clear day, the view is nothing short of breathtaking. To the west, you’ll see the rolling, emerald-green hills of the Southland hinterland, and to the east, the dramatic, jagged coastline where the Pacific Ocean meets the shore. It’s a panoramic perspective that helps you appreciate just how vast and rugged this corner of the world is.
Another highlight, though more subtle, is the presence of the native mistletoe (Peraxilla colensoi). If you happen to be tramping in December or January, look up into the silver beech trees. You might see bursts of vibrant scarlet flowers—these are the mistletoe blooms, a rare and beautiful sight that indicates a healthy forest ecosystem.
To find the trailhead, you’ll want to head towards the Tawanui Campsite. Most hikers access this via Catlins Valley Road or Morris Saddle Road, coming from the nearby township of Owaka. It’s a scenic drive through rural farmland before you transition into the bush.
Parking is plentiful at the Tawanui Campsite. Since this is a DOC-managed site, it’s well-equipped with 60 non-powered sites if you fancy staying the night before or after your hike. You’ll find flush toilets, picnic tables, and water on tap (though remember to boil it before drinking).
Alternatively, if you want to start from the other end, there is a picnic area with a toilet at The Wisp end of the track, accessed via Chloris Pass Road. However, most locals prefer starting at Tawanui to get the river section done first.
The Catlins is one of the few places left on the mainland where you can still hear the forest as it might have sounded centuries ago. The The Wisp Loop Walk is a sanctuary for birdlife, and if you stay quiet, you’re in for a treat.
The "holy grail" of sightings here is the Mohua (Yellowhead). These tiny, bright yellow birds are incredibly rare and are the focus of intense conservation efforts. They flit through the high canopy of the beech forest, so bring a pair of binoculars if you have them.
More common, but no less delightful, are the Tūī and Bellbirds (Korimako), whose melodic, bell-like calls echo through the trees. You’ll almost certainly see the Fantail (Pīwakawaka) darting around you; they love to follow hikers to catch the insects stirred up by your boots. Look out for the tiny Rifleman (Titipounamu), New Zealand’s smallest bird, which looks like a little green marble bouncing up and down tree trunks. If you're lucky, you might even hear the screech of a Kākā (a large forest parrot) soaring overhead.
The Catlins area is geologically fascinating, featuring rock formations that date back to the Jurassic period. Historically, the region was a significant site for both Māori and early European settlers. For Māori, the area provided a rich "mahinga kai" (food gathering) resource, particularly from the rivers and the sea.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Catlins was a hub for the timber industry. As you walk the forestry sections of The Wisp Loop, you are seeing a modern continuation of that history. However, the preservation of the silver beech forest you see today is a testament to New Zealand’s shifting focus towards conservation. The fact that the Mohua still survives here is a big win for local ecological groups and DOC.
There is no better feeling than peeling off your boots after a 12-kilometre tramp and finding a warm meal. Head back into Owaka (about 7km from the Tawanui Campsite) to refuel.
The Wisp Loop Walk isn't just a hike; it’s an immersion into the wild, rugged soul of the South Island. It will challenge your fitness and test your footing, but as you stand on Rocky Knoll looking out at the edge of the world, you’ll realise that some of the best things in life are found at the end of a long, steep track.
Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae
New Zealand wood pigeon, a large native bird with iridescent green and purple plumage. Important for seed dispersal of native trees.
Best time: Year-round
Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae
Endemic New Zealand honeyeater with distinctive white throat tuft and iridescent plumage. Known for its complex and beautiful song.
Best time: Year-round
Anthornis melanura
Endemic songbird with bell-like calls. Males are olive-green with a purple head sheen; females are browner with a narrow white-yellow stripe across the cheek.
Best time: Year-round
Rhipidura fuliginosa
Small insectivorous bird with distinctive fan-shaped tail. Friendly and curious, often following walkers through the bush.
Best time: Year-round
Nestor meridionalis
Large forest parrot found in native bush. Loud and social, increasingly common in predator-controlled sanctuaries.
Best time: Year-round
7km away
Located in Owaka (approximately 7km from Tawanui Campsite), this cafe offers a selection of home-cooked and traditional Thai favourites, as well as Kiwi cuisine. It's a cozy spot known for its genuine small-town hospitality.
7km away
A hotel in Owaka (approximately 7km from Tawanui Campsite) with a restaurant and bar, offering local cuisine. It's a good option for a meal and a drink after a hike.