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Rarakau Carpark, Tuatapere
61 km
72 hours
1950 metres
If you are looking for a tramping experience that perfectly captures the wild, untamed spirit of the South Island, the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track is it. Recently crowned as New Zealand’s 11th Great Walk, this 61-kilometre loop is a masterclass in diversity. Over three days (roughly 72 hours), you’ll find yourself transitioning from the rugged coastline of the Southern Ocean to the misty, sub-alpine heights of the Hump Ridge, before descending back through ancient forests and historical ruins.
The journey begins at the Rarakau Carpark, just west of Tuatapere. Most hikers tackle the loop anti-clockwise, and for good reason—it gets the biggest climb out of the way while your legs are fresh! The first day is a spectacular introduction to the region. You’ll start with a walk along the cliff tops, looking down at the powerful swells of Te Waewae Bay. Walking along Bluecliffs Beach is an invigorating experience; there’s something deeply humbling about having the vast Southern Ocean on one side and the towering forest on the other.
However, don't get too comfortable on the flat sand. Once the track turns inland, the real work begins. The ascent is steady and demanding, earning its nickname, the 'Stairway to Heaven'. You’ll climb nearly 1,000 metres through a changing tapestry of native bush, moving from the dense podocarp forests of the lowlands into the gnarled, mossy beech trees of the sub-alpine zone. Arriving at Okaka Lodge is a moment you won’t forget—perched high on the ridge, the views are simply world-class.
Day two is a descent through time and nature. You’ll traverse the ridgeline, weaving between weathered limestone tors and alpine tarns that look like mirrors on a clear day. As you drop back down towards the coast, the environment changes again into a lush, prehistoric-looking forest. This section follows old wooden tramlines, leading you to the historic site of Port Craig.
The final day is a 20-kilometre stretch that feels like a victory lap. It’s a gentler walk through coastal forest and across deserted beaches like Blowholes Beach. While the terrain is easier on the lungs, the track can be muddy and involves navigating tree roots and gravel paths, so you’ll need a solid level of fitness to truly enjoy the experience.
Parking is available at the Rarakau Carpark, which is located at 1304B Papatotara Coast Road, Rowallan 9691. This is a private carpark and a koha (donation) of $5 per vehicle is appreciated. Cars are left at the owner's risk, though the area is fenced and overlooked by a farmhouse, with 24-hour cameras and onsite security for added peace of mind. Parking is free for guests staying at Rarakau Lodge. Shuttle services to and from Tuatapere can be arranged through the Hump Ridge Track office.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Nestor meridionalis
Large forest parrot found in native bush. Loud and social, increasingly common in predator-controlled sanctuaries.
Best time: Year-round
Nestor notabilis
Intelligent alpine parrot endemic to the South Island. Known for curiosity and problem-solving abilities.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
100m away
Located directly at the trailhead, Rarakau Lodge offers hearty burgers, fresh coffee, and cinnamon buns, providing a welcoming spot for hikers before or after their tramp. It also features a shared kitchen and BBQ facilities.
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Loop
The Hump Ridge Track is packed with "pinch-me" moments. The absolute standout is the panoramic vista from Okaka Lodge. On a blue-bird day, you can see right across the Foveaux Strait to Stewart Island (Rakiura) and deep into the heart of the Southern Alps. It feels like standing on the edge of the world.
For history buffs, the Percy Burn Viaduct is a jaw-dropping sight. As one of the largest wooden mill tramway viaducts in the world, it is a staggering feat of early 20th-century engineering. Standing in the middle of this massive structure, surrounded by nothing but silence and deep green forest, you really get a sense of the sheer grit of the early logging pioneers.
Down at sea level, the Port Craig area offers a different kind of magic. Once a bustling sawmill town in the 1920s, it is now a tranquil ghost town reclaimed by nature. Keep your eyes glued to the surf at Port Craig Lodge—the rare and tiny Hector’s dolphins are known to frequent the bay here, often playing in the waves just offshore.
To get to the start of your adventure, head towards Tuatapere, often called the "Sausage Capital of New Zealand." From Tuatapere, follow the Papatotara Coast Road for about 28 kilometres until you reach the Rarakau Carpark (1304B Papatotara Coast Road).
The carpark is private and well-maintained. While it is free for those staying at Rarakau Lodge, other hikers are asked to provide a koha (donation) of $5 per vehicle. It’s a safe spot to leave your car, as it’s fenced, overlooked by a farmhouse, and monitored by 24-hour cameras. If you’d rather not drive, you can easily arrange a shuttle service through the Hump Ridge Track office in Tuatapere.
The Hump Ridge is a haven for native birdlife. As you climb through the beech forests, listen for the melodic chime of the Bellbird (Korimako) and the cheeky chatter of the New Zealand Fantail (Pīwakawaka).
Keep an eye out for the South Island Robin (Toutouwai); these friendly little birds are incredibly inquisitive and will often hop right up to your boots to see if you’ve stirred up any tasty insects in the leaf litter. If you're lucky, you might spot the Kākā or even a wandering Kea up near the sub-alpine lodges. These parrots are highly intelligent and always worth a photo—just make sure you don’t leave any gear unattended, or they might try to "inspect" it for you!
Near the coast, look for the Foveaux Shag (Mapo) drying its wings on the rocks. And, as mentioned, the Hector's dolphins at Port Craig are a highlight that many hikers consider the "cherry on top" of the entire trip.
Pro-Tip: Start your walk as early as possible on Day 1. The climb to Okaka is significant, and you’ll want plenty of time to stop for photos and catch your breath without feeling rushed before sunset.
The Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track is unique because it was born from the spirit of the local community. Managed by the Tuatapere Hump Track Charitable Trust, it represents a massive effort by the town to pivot from a logging-based economy to a conservation and tourism-focused one.
The area is steeped in Māori history, with the Waitutu forest being a significant site for local iwi. The land itself is geologically fascinating, featuring ancient marine terraces that have been uplifted over millions of years, creating the "humps" that give the ridge its name.
The logging heritage at Port Craig provides a hauntingly beautiful contrast to the wilderness. Seeing the rusted remains of old machinery and the massive viaducts serves as a reminder of the human struggle to tame this wild landscape—and how gracefully nature eventually takes it back.
Once you’ve finished those final kilometres and arrived back at the Rarakau Carpark, your first stop should be Rarakau Lodge, located just 100 metres from the trailhead. There is no better feeling than peeling off your boots and ordering one of their hearty burgers. If you’re there in the morning, their fresh coffee and famous cinnamon buns are the ultimate reward for 61km of hard work.
Back in Tuatapere, you can soak up the local hospitality at the local pubs or grab some of their famous sausages to take home. It’s the perfect way to wind down and reflect on a truly epic Kiwi tramping experience.
Petroica australis
Friendly forest bird that often approaches walkers. Males are dark grey-black; females are paler.
Best time: Year-round
Rhipidura fuliginosa
In Māori mythology, the pīwakawaka is considered a messenger, sometimes bringing news of death.
Best time: Year-round
Anthornis melanura
Endemic songbird with bell-like calls. Males are olive-green with a purple head sheen; females are browner with a narrow white-yellow stripe across the cheek.
Best time: Year-round
Leucocarbo stewarti
Endemic to the Foveaux Strait, this marine shag species is often seen diving for fish in the coastal waters near Bluff.
Best time: Year-round
Cyanoramphus auriceps
These vibrant green parakeets are often heard before they are seen, flitting quickly through the forest canopy.
Best time: Year-round