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Tongariro National Park, Whakapapa Village
18.9 km
5 hours 30 minutes
520 metres
Safety notice: Conditions change; check DOC/local council/weather before walking.
If you are looking for a day hike that captures the raw, prehistoric soul of the central North Island without the overwhelming crowds of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, the Upper Tama Lake – Taranaki Falls loop is your golden ticket. Spanning 18.9km and taking roughly 5.5 hours to complete, this trail is a masterclass in volcanic diversity. It starts and ends in the alpine heart of Whakapapa Village, offering a journey that transitions from enchanting beech forests to stark, wind-swept lunar landscapes.
The adventure begins on the Taranaki Falls Walk. This initial leg is a gentle introduction, winding through alpine grasslands and pockets of ancient mountain beech forest. You’ll hear the wind whistling through the tussock and, if you’re lucky, the frantic chatter of native birds. The path leads you toward the Taranaki Falls, a spectacular 20-metre cascade. What makes this spot special is the geology; the water plunges over the edge of an ancient andesite lava flow that erupted from Mount Ruapehu over 15,000 years ago. Standing at the base, you can feel the mist on your face and see the distinct layers of volcanic history frozen in the cliffs.
Once you leave the falls behind, the track shifts gears and becomes the Tama Lakes Track. The "hard" difficulty rating starts to make sense here. The sheltered forest gives way to wide-open, undulating tussock country. This is big sky territory. To your left, the massive, glacier-carved bulk of Mount Ruapehu looms, while directly ahead sits the perfectly symmetrical cone of Mount Ngauruhoe. For fans of The Lord of the Rings, this is your chance to see the real-life Mount Doom in all its brooding glory.
As you push further toward the lakes, the terrain becomes more rugged. The well-formed path eventually peters out into a rough, unformed route. The final ascent to the Upper Tama Lake viewpoint is where your fitness will be tested. You’ll be navigating loose scoria and uneven volcanic rock, so those sturdy tramping boots are non-negotiable. It’s a bit of a "two steps forward, one step back" situation on the scree, but the moment you crest the ridge, the struggle is forgotten. Below you lie the Lower and Upper Tama Lakes, two brilliant emerald jewels nestled in deep explosion craters (mauri). The contrast of the vibrant water against the scorched, barren earth is nothing short of otherworldly.
Ample free day parking is available in Whakapapa Village, primarily at the car park located at the end of Ngauruhoe Place, behind the Chateau Tongariro Hotel and near the Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre. Additional parking can be found along the main road through the village. During peak season, parking can be challenging, so it's advisable to arrive early.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Mohoua albicilla
Whiteheads are social, insectivorous forest birds, often seen foraging in noisy flocks high in the canopy of native forests. [6, 20, 21]
Best time: Year-round
Gerygone igata
Small greyish songbird also known as Riroriro. Has a distinctive trembling song often heard before seen.
Best time: Year-round
Refuel after your hike at these nearby spots
200m away
Located in the basement of the historic Chateau, this bistro-style café offers excellent and imaginative food. It's known for its classical styling and grandeur, providing a refined dining experience.
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Loop
The return journey completes the loop back to the village, offering a fresh perspective of the volcanic plateau as the afternoon light shifts the colours of the mountains from grey to deep purple and gold.
The Upper Tama Lake – Taranaki Falls loop is a highlight reel of Tongariro National Park’s best bits. Here are the features you absolutely cannot miss:
Finding the trailhead is straightforward. Everything kicks off in Whakapapa Village, which is the main gateway to the park.
Parking: There is ample free day parking available. Your best bet is the car park located at the end of Ngauruhoe Place, right behind the historic (though currently closed for accommodation) Chateau Tongariro Hotel. This puts you right next to the Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre, which is a great place to check the latest weather updates before heading out. If that’s full, there is additional parking along the main village road.
Tip: Even though this is the "quieter" alternative to the Crossing, it’s still popular. During peak summer weekends or public holidays, try to arrive by 8:30 am to secure a spot and enjoy the trail before the midday sun hits.
While the volcanic plateau might look barren from a distance, it is teeming with life if you know where to look.
Birding Tip: The best time for wildlife is early morning. The beech forest sections near the start of the track are the most bird-heavy, so keep your ears open as you leave the village.
Tongariro National Park is a place of extremes, and your experience will change dramatically depending on when you visit.
This land is more than just a scenic playground; it is a landscape steeped in Māori history and spirituality. The entire Tongariro area holds profound significance for the local iwi, Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro.
The mountains themselves—Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro—are considered maunga tapu (sacred mountains). According to legend, the peaks were once gods and warriors. To respect the sanctity of this area and the cultural heritage of the people who have cared for it for centuries, visitors are asked to stay on the marked tracks. Most importantly, please do not touch or enter the water in the Tama Lakes. These waterways are considered sacred, and keeping them pristine is a way for hikers to show respect for the local culture.
Geologically, you are walking through a "live" landscape. The Tama Lakes sit on the saddle between Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe, acting as a geological bridge between two of the most active volcanoes in the country. The vents and craters you see are reminders that the earth here is very much alive.
After 18.9km of volcanic exploration, you’ve earned a decent feed. Whakapapa Village has some fantastic spots to refuel:
Whether you're here for the "Mount Doom" views or the serene beauty of the emerald lakes, the Upper Tama Lake – Taranaki Falls loop is an unforgettable New Zealand experience. Respect the mountain, come prepared, and enjoy the walk!
Acanthisitta chloris
The tītitiponamu is New Zealand's smallest native bird, often seen flitting quickly up tree trunks and branches.
Best time: Year-round
Best time: Year-round
Poodytes punctatus
A secretive marsh-dweller, known for its cryptic plumage and distinctive 'stitch' call, sometimes visiting from nearby estuaries.
Best time: Year-round
Alauda arvensis
An introduced species, the skylark is renowned for its beautiful, sustained song delivered while hovering high in the air.
Best time: Spring-Summer
300m away
A licensed restaurant showcasing New Zealand local produce with an à la carte dinner menu, often featuring lamb shanks and summer BBQs. The bar offers a wide selection of NZ wines and craft beers, with a terrace perfect for admiring sunsets over Mount Ngauruhoe.
400m away
A lively pub open daily, serving typical pub food in a relaxed environment with rugby, a pool table, karaoke, and a great open fire – perfect for post-hike refreshments.
400m away
A popular food and coffee cart known for serving the 'best coffee on the mountain,' along with quality brews, tasty toasties, cakes, and pies. It's a friendly spot for a quick pre- or post-hike pick-me-up.
500m away
A food truck offering a range of food options, conveniently located on the front lawn of the Whakapapa Holiday Park, just up from the visitor centre.