Upper Tama Lake – Taranaki Falls loop

Loop

The return journey completes the loop back to the village, offering a fresh perspective of the volcanic plateau as the afternoon light shifts the colours of the mountains from grey to deep purple and gold.

Highlights & Must-See Features

The Upper Tama Lake – Taranaki Falls loop is a highlight reel of Tongariro National Park’s best bits. Here are the features you absolutely cannot miss:

• Taranaki Falls: Don’t just view it from the top; take the stairs down to the base. The sheer power of the water hitting the plunge pool is a great way to wake up your senses at the start of the hike.
• The "Mount Doom" Photo Op: As you walk along the Tama Lakes Track, you get an unobstructed, straight-on view of Mount Ngauruhoe. It is one of the most iconic sights in New Zealand.
• The Tama Lakes: These are not your average lakes. They occupy six different explosion craters that formed roughly 10,000 years ago. The Upper Tama Lake viewpoint offers a dual vista of both the upper and lower lakes, providing a sense of the immense volcanic forces that shaped this region.
• Alpine Herb Fields: During the warmer months, keep an eye out for alpine wild-flowers and hardy herbs that thrive in this harsh environment. They add a surprising splash of colour to the otherwise monochromatic volcanic landscape.

Getting There

Finding the trailhead is straightforward. Everything kicks off in Whakapapa Village, which is the main gateway to the park.

Parking: There is ample free day parking available. Your best bet is the car park located at the end of Ngauruhoe Place, right behind the historic (though currently closed for accommodation) Chateau Tongariro Hotel. This puts you right next to the Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre, which is a great place to check the latest weather updates before heading out. If that’s full, there is additional parking along the main village road.

Tip: Even though this is the "quieter" alternative to the Crossing, it’s still popular. During peak summer weekends or public holidays, try to arrive by 8:30 am to secure a spot and enjoy the trail before the midday sun hits.

Wildlife Spotting

While the volcanic plateau might look barren from a distance, it is teeming with life if you know where to look.

• Whitehead (Pōpokotea): Common year-round, these busy little birds are often found in the beech forest sections near Taranaki Falls.
• Grey Warbler (Riroriro): Listen for their long, trilling song. They are common throughout the park.
• New Zealand Pipit (Pihoihoi): You’ll likely spot these on the open tussock flats. They are ground-dwellers and often run along the track ahead of you before taking flight.
• Skylark: In spring and summer, these birds fill the alpine air with a constant stream of song as they hover high above the herb fields.

Birding Tip: The best time for wildlife is early morning. The beech forest sections near the start of the track are the most bird-heavy, so keep your ears open as you leave the village.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

Tongariro National Park is a place of extremes, and your experience will change dramatically depending on when you visit.

• Spring: Expect crisp air and the sound of rushing water as the winter snow melts into the falls. The mountains will still have a heavy dusting of white, making for incredible photos.
• Summer: This is the most popular time. The days are long, and the alpine flowers are in bloom. However, it can get surprisingly hot on the exposed sections, and there is almost no shade once you leave the forest.
• Autumn: My personal favourite. The weather is often more stable, the air is clear, and the light is softer.
• Winter: This trail is open in winter, but it becomes a true alpine expedition. You may need crampons and an ice axe for the final ascent to the Upper Lake, and you must be confident in your snow-navigation skills.

• Layers: The wind can be brutal once you get onto the exposed ridges near the lakes. Bring a windproof/waterproof jacket even if it’s sunny in the village.
• Sun Protection: The UV levels in the NZ alpine are extreme. Bring a hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sunscreen.
• Water & Food: There are no water sources on the trail that are safe to drink without treatment. Carry at least 2–3 litres of water and plenty of high-energy snacks.
• Footwear: Sturdy tramping boots with good ankle support are essential for the scoria slopes.

Local & Regional Context

This land is more than just a scenic playground; it is a landscape steeped in Māori history and spirituality. The entire Tongariro area holds profound significance for the local iwi, Ngāti Hikairo ki Tongariro.

The mountains themselves—Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro—are considered maunga tapu (sacred mountains). According to legend, the peaks were once gods and warriors. To respect the sanctity of this area and the cultural heritage of the people who have cared for it for centuries, visitors are asked to stay on the marked tracks. Most importantly, please do not touch or enter the water in the Tama Lakes. These waterways are considered sacred, and keeping them pristine is a way for hikers to show respect for the local culture.

Geologically, you are walking through a "live" landscape. The Tama Lakes sit on the saddle between Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe, acting as a geological bridge between two of the most active volcanoes in the country. The vents and craters you see are reminders that the earth here is very much alive.

After the Walk

After 18.9km of volcanic exploration, you’ve earned a decent feed. Whakapapa Village has some fantastic spots to refuel:

• Skotel Alpine Resort Restaurant & Bar: Just 300m from the track end, this is a classic hiker's haunt. Their lamb shanks are legendary for hungry trampers, and the terrace offers a stunning view of the sunset over the mountains.
• The Tussock Tavern: If you’re after a more relaxed "pub" vibe, head here. It’s got a great open fire for those chilly afternoons and serves up solid pub grub like burgers and fish and chips.
• Ma & Mel’s Coffee Cart: Located near the holiday park, this is the place for a post-hike caffeine hit. They are widely considered to have the best coffee on the mountain, along with some seriously tasty toasties.
• Pihanga Café & Bar: Located in the basement of the historic Chateau building, this offers a more refined, bistro-style experience if you want to celebrate finishing the loop in style.

Whether you're here for the "Mount Doom" views or the serene beauty of the emerald lakes, the Upper Tama Lake – Taranaki Falls loop is an unforgettable New Zealand experience. Respect the mountain, come prepared, and enjoy the walk!

Skotel Alpine Resort Restaurant & Bar

300m away

A licensed restaurant showcasing New Zealand local produce with an à la carte dinner menu, often featuring lamb shanks and summer BBQs. The bar offers a wide selection of NZ wines and craft beers, with a terrace perfect for admiring sunsets over Mount Ngauruhoe.