Lewis Tops Track

Out and back

For the more experienced trampers among us, the adventure doesn't have to end there. Many choose to continue along the unmarked ridge toward Point 1580m or even further toward Lucretia and The Apprentice. Be warned, though: once you leave the marked poles, you are in true backcountry territory. You’ll need solid navigation skills and a keen eye on the horizon, as the weather in the Lewis Pass can change from bluebird skies to a total whiteout in a matter of minutes.

Highlights & Must-See Features

The absolute standout feature of this walk is the 360-degree panoramic view from the tops. To the north, you can see the rugged Spenser Mountains, and to the south, the views stretch deep into the Nina Valley and beyond. It is a perspective of the Southern Alps that usually requires days of trekking to achieve, yet here you are, seeing it just 90 minutes from your car.

The alpine tarns are another highlight. These delicate ecosystems are incredibly photogenic, especially during the "golden hour" of late afternoon. If you’re a photographer, this is the place to be. The contrast between the deep blue water, the golden tussock, and the jagged grey peaks is nothing short of spectacular.

Finally, the transition from forest to alpine zone is a masterclass in New Zealand's unique ecology. Seeing how the vegetation changes so rapidly with altitude is fascinating, and the sense of freedom you feel when you finally step out of the trees and onto the open tops is a sensation every hiker should experience at least once.

Getting There

The Lewis Tops Track is located right at the summit of Lewis Pass on State Highway 7. The trailhead starts directly opposite the entrance to the well-known St James Walkway carpark.

When you arrive, you’ll find a designated parking area on the north side of the highway, just across the Rough Creek road bridge. While the St James Walkway carpark across the road has public toilets and a water tank (which you should definitely use before you start, as there are no facilities on the mountain), a word of caution is necessary: the Lewis Pass area is unfortunately known for occasional car break-ins. Do not leave any valuables in your vehicle.

If you are worried about security or are planning an extended trip, you might consider contacting the Boyle River Outdoor Education Centre. They often offer more secure parking options and even drop-off services for a small fee, which can provide great peace of mind while you’re up on the ridges.

Wildlife Spotting

As you climb through the beech forest, keep your ears open for the melodic "bonk" of the Tūī and the sweet, ringing notes of the Korimako (Bellbird). These nectar-feeders are common throughout the year and provide a beautiful soundtrack to the early part of your hike. You are also likely to encounter the Pīwakawaka (Fantail), which will often follow you along the trail, flitting about to catch the insects you disturb as you walk.

The real stars of the show, however, are the Kea. These highly intelligent, cheeky alpine parrots are occasionally seen soaring over the tops or perched on rocky outcrops. If you do see one, remember they are famously curious—keep a close eye on your gear and never feed them, as human food is incredibly harmful to their health.

In the quieter parts of the forest, look out for the Toutouwai (South Island Robin). These friendly birds are known for hopping right up to your boots to see what you're up to. If you’re incredibly lucky, you might even hear the distant call of a Kākā, though they remain quite rare in this specific area.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

• Summer (December – February): Long days and the best chance for stable weather. However, the tops are completely exposed, so sun protection is non-negotiable.
• Autumn (March – May): Often brings crisp, clear days with excellent visibility and less wind. The light is softer, making it the best time for photography.
• Winter (June – August): This becomes a serious alpine undertaking. Snow can be deep, and you may require ice axes and crampons. Only attempt this in winter if you are experienced in snow travel.
• Spring (September – November): Beautiful with snow still on the high peaks, but the weather is at its most temperamental.

• Start Early: Aim to be on the trail by 9:00 AM. This gives you plenty of time to enjoy the tops without rushing and ensures you’re back before the afternoon clouds often roll in.
• Gear Up: Because of the 675m climb, you will get hot quickly. Use a layering system. Even if it’s warm at the carpark, the wind on the ridge can be biting. Pack a windproof/waterproof jacket and a warm hat.
• Protect the Environment: Because this is a sensitive alpine environment with no facilities, it is not suitable for dogs. It is also a "hard" track with significant drop-offs and steep climbing, so it is generally not recommended for young children.
• Water: Carry at least 2 litres of water per person. There are no reliable water sources until you reach the tarns, and you shouldn't rely on those without treatment.

Local & Regional Context

The Lewis Pass (Kawatiri) has a rich history as a vital link between the east and west coasts of the South Island. For centuries, Māori used this pass as a seasonal route to transport Pounamu (greenstone) from the West Coast rivers back to the east. It was a place of trade, travel, and sometimes conflict, long before European explorers "discovered" it in the 1860s.

Geologically, you are standing near the Alpine Fault, the seam where the Pacific and Australian plates collide. This tectonic activity is what created the dramatic, jagged landscape you see from the tops. The area is part of the Lewis Pass Scenic Reserve, a protected pocket of wilderness that serves as a crucial corridor for native wildlife.

After the Walk

After descending the steep track—which, let's be honest, can be a bit of a "knee-cruncher"—there is only one place you should head: Maruia Hot Springs. Located just 12km (about a 10-minute drive) west of the trailhead, this is the ultimate post-hike sanctuary.

The resort features natural geothermal mineral pools that are perfect for soaking those tired muscles while still enjoying views of the surrounding mountains. They have an excellent on-site restaurant serving organic, nourishing food. Whether you stop for a full soak or just a coffee and a meal, it is the perfect way to transition from the wild energy of the mountains back to reality.

The Lewis Tops Track is a challenging, rewarding, and quintessentially Kiwi experience. It offers a taste of the high country that stays with you long after the mud has been washed off your boots.