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Linkwater
18.9 km
10 hours
1190 metres
If you’re looking for a hike that truly tests your mettle while rewarding you with some of the most expansive views in the top of the South Island, the Mount Robertson tracks (or Tokomaru) should be right at the top of your list. Located near Linkwater and Whites Bay, this isn't just a casual Sunday stroll; it’s a full-on mountain odyssey that takes you from the edge of the Pacific Ocean up into the clouds of the Marlborough Sounds.
At 18.9 kilometres and with a massive 1190 metres of elevation gain, this loop is a serious undertaking. It’s the kind of walk that leaves your legs heavy but your soul full. Whether you’re a local looking for a training ground for a Great Walk or a tourist wanting to see the "real" rugged Marlborough beyond the vineyards, Mount Robertson delivers in spades.
The journey through the Mount Robertson tracks is a masterclass in New Zealand’s diverse forest ecosystems. Most hikers choose to start their adventure near Whites Bay, one of the region's most beloved coastal spots. Starting at sea level adds a certain "epic" quality to the day—you know that every metre of that 1036-metre peak has to be earned through sweat and persistence.
The initial stages of the walk lead you through lush, regenerating native bush. It’s a verdant tunnel of green where the air is thick with the scent of damp earth and fern fronds. As you begin the steady climb, the track transitions into magnificent, mature beech forest. There is something almost cathedral-like about these sections; the tall trunks create a sense of vast interior space, and the ground is often carpeted in soft orange beech leaves.
The terrain itself is varied and keeps you on your toes. You’ll encounter wide 4WD tracks where you can find a steady rhythm, but these are frequently broken up by steep, technical sections dominated by tangled tree roots and rocky steps. Because this is a shared track, you’ll need to keep an ear out for mountain bikers. On the narrower, steeper bits, bikers can come through quite quickly, so a bit of trail etiquette and awareness goes a long way.
The climb is sustained. There aren't many "flat" moments to catch your breath until you reach the higher ridges. The final push toward the summit of Tokomaru (Mount Robertson) is where the "hard" rating really earns its keep. The air cools, the vegetation stunts, and you finally emerge near the Airways radar station that sits atop the peak. While the very top is a bit functional, the sense of accomplishment as you stand 1036 metres above the sea you started at is profound.
Ample parking is available at Whites Bay, a popular recreation reserve. From here, you can access connecting tracks like the Rarangi-Whites Bay Track to reach the Mount Robertson tracks. Alternatively, direct access to the Mount Robertson Loop Track is available from two signposted points on Port Underwood Road, though off-road parking at these entrances may be limited. The Whites Bay campsite offers additional parking.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Anthornis melanura
Endemic songbird with bell-like calls. Males are olive-green with a purple head sheen; females are browner with a narrow white-yellow stripe across the cheek.
Best time: Year-round
Rhipidura fuliginosa
Small insectivorous bird with distinctive fan-shaped tail. Friendly and curious, often following walkers through the bush.
Best time: Year-round
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Loop
The descent requires just as much concentration as the climb. The Marlborough clay can be notoriously slippery, especially after a bit of rain. Between the steep gradients and the rocky patches, your knees will certainly know they’ve been for a walk by the time you close the loop.
The undisputed crown jewel of this hike is the Rocky Outcrop. While the actual summit of Mount Robertson is home to a large radar station that can slightly obscure the 360-degree views, a rocky vantage point just a short distance below the summit offers the "hero shot" you’ve been climbing for. From here, the world opens up. You can trace the winding curves of the Wairau Valley, look across to the rugged Richmond Range, and on those crisp, clear Marlborough days, you can see right across the Cook Strait to the South Coast of the North Island.
Another highlight is the Rarangi-Whites Bay Track connection. If you have the energy, linking these tracks allows you to experience the transition from a rugged coastal environment to a sub-alpine peak in a single day.
For many, the "highlight" is the sheer solitude. Unlike some of the more famous tracks in the nearby Abel Tasman, Mount Robertson sees far fewer boots. You’ll often have long stretches of the beech forest entirely to yourself, punctuated only by the sound of the wind in the canopy and the call of a distant bird.
To get to the main trailhead, head toward Whites Bay, which is roughly a 20-minute drive from Rarangi or about 35 minutes from Blenheim. The road into Whites Bay (Port Underwood Road) is sealed but narrow and winding, so take your time and enjoy the coastal views.
There is ample parking at the Whites Bay recreation reserve, which also features a popular Department of Conservation (DOC) campsite. From the beach area, you can follow the signposts to connect with the Mount Robertson tracks.
Alternatively, if you want a slightly shorter (though still very steep) version of the walk, there are two signposted entry points further up Port Underwood Road. Be warned, though: off-road parking at these specific track entrances is very limited—usually just enough for one or two cars on the shoulder of a narrow road. Starting at Whites Bay is generally the safer and more scenic option.
The Mount Robertson Scenic Reserve is a haven for native birdlife, and the "bird song" here is often exceptional. As you move through the different forest tiers, keep your eyes and ears open for:
Tip: The best time for bird spotting is early morning. If you start your hike at 8:00 am, the forest will be at its most vocal.
Safety Note: A portion of the loop involves walking along Port Underwood Road. This is a narrow, winding road used by logging trucks and locals. Stay on the verge, walk facing traffic, and be extremely vigilant on blind corners.
Mount Robertson is known to local Māori as Tokomaru. The name carries weight in Māori history, often linked to the Tokomaru waka (canoe), one of the great voyaging canoes that brought Polynesians to Aotearoa. The peak served as a vital landmark for navigation and a lookout point for the iwi (tribes) inhabiting the Marlborough Sounds and Wairau plains.
The area is part of a significant Scenic Reserve, which acts as a "mainland island" of sorts for native biodiversity. The transition from the coastal environment of Whites Bay to the high-altitude beech forest represents a classic slice of Marlborough’s natural heritage. By hiking here, you are walking through a landscape that has remained largely unchanged for centuries, offering a glimpse into the wild Marlborough that existed before the valleys were cleared for farming and viticulture.
After a 10-hour mission, you’re going to be starving. Here are the best spots to refuel:
Cyanoramphus auriceps
These vibrant green parakeets are often heard before they are seen, flitting quickly through the forest canopy.
Best time: Year-round
Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae
Endemic New Zealand honeyeater with distinctive white throat tuft and iridescent plumage. Known for its complex and beautiful song.
Best time: Year-round
Petroica australis
Friendly forest bird that often approaches walkers. Males are dark grey-black; females are paler.
Best time: Year-round
Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae
New Zealand wood pigeon, a large native bird with iridescent green and purple plumage. Important for seed dispersal of native trees.
Best time: Year-round
Zosterops lateralis
Small bird with distinctive white eye-ring. Commonly seen in flocks, feeding on insects, fruit, and nectar.
Best time: Year-round