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Totaranui
3.7 km
1 hour 30 minutes
50 metres
If you find yourself at the northern end of the world-famous Abel Tasman National Park, you’ve likely already been captivated by the legendary golden sands and turquoise waters. But while many visitors focus solely on the coastline, there is a hidden emerald world tucked just inland that deserves your attention. The Totaranui to Pukatea Walk is a gentle, 3.7km ramble that serves as the perfect introduction to the region's lush coastal forest and fascinating botanical history.
At just 1.5 hours return, this "easy" rated track is an absolute gem for families, casual strollers, or even seasoned hikers looking for a "cool down" walk after tackling a section of the Abel Tasman Coast Track. It’s a journey through time, showing you exactly how the New Zealand bush heals itself, transitioning from old farmland back into a towering, ancient rainforest.
The adventure begins at the Tōtaranui campground, a place that feels like the ultimate Kiwi summer postcard. After leaving your vehicle, you’ll head north, following the signs for the Abel Tasman Coast Track. This initial stretch allows you to soak in those iconic coastal views, with the salt air filling your lungs and the sound of the Tasman Sea gently lapping at the shore.
The terrain here is well-formed and easy underfoot. As you reach the base of Anapai Hill, you’ll bid farewell to the main coastal thoroughfare and veer onto the dedicated Pukatea Walk. This is where the magic really starts to happen. Almost immediately, the atmosphere shifts. The wide-open coastal sky is replaced by a canopy of kānuka and the occasional patch of gorse. While gorse is often seen as a nuisance, here it plays a vital role as a "nursery" plant, protecting young native seedlings from the elements as they reclaim what was once cleared farmland.
One of the most delightful surprises on this trail is the curving wooden boardwalk that carries you safely across a raupō swamp. It’s a serene, slightly surreal moment where you can look down into the dark, still waters of the wetland and see the intricate world of reeds and water plants up close.
From the swamp, the track begins a gentle ascent of about 50 metres. You’ll find yourself on a dry ridge where the air smells of earth and sun-warmed wood. Here, the vegetation changes again, and you’ll walk among elegant, slender beech trees. The final act of the walk is the entry into the ancient pukatea forest itself. It feels like stepping into a natural cathedral. The light becomes dappled and green, and the temperature drops a few degrees as the massive canopy overhead takes over. It’s a quiet, contemplative space that feels worlds away from the busy campground just a few kilometres back.
Parking is available at the Tōtaranui campground, which serves as the trailhead for this walk. Access to Tōtaranui is via Tōtaranui Road, the last 12 km of which is an unsealed but generally suitable road for campervans.
Get DirectionsKeep an eye out for these native and local bird species along the trail
Gallirallus australis
Flightless rail known for bold, inquisitive behaviour. Found mainly in the South Island and some offshore islands.
Best time: Year-round
Best time: Year-round
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Out and back
The undisputed star of the show is the ancient pukatea forest. These trees are giants of the New Zealand bush, often growing in damp gullies. Keep an eye out for their distinctive buttress roots, which help stabilise them in soft ground. Within this forest, you’ll also find stunning glades of nīkau palms. With their feather-like fronds and smooth trunks, they give the trail a tropical, prehistoric feel—you wouldn't be surprised to see a dinosaur peering through the foliage!
Another highlight is the colossal rātā trees. These forest giants often start life as a vine, eventually wrapping around a host tree and growing into massive, gnarly structures that dominate the skyline.
For the photographers among us, the raupō swamp boardwalk provides a fantastic leading line for photos, especially in the soft light of the early morning or late afternoon. The contrast between the golden-brown reeds and the vibrant green forest backdrop is simply stunning.
Finally, don't miss the black mamaku (giant treeferns). They are some of the tallest tree ferns in the world, and their dark, scaly trunks and massive fronds add a wonderful texture to the forest scenery.
To reach the trailhead, you’ll need to head to the Tōtaranui campground. If you’re driving from Takaka, take the turn-off toward Pohara and follow the road through to the Abel Tasman National Park.
A quick word of advice: the last 12km of Tōtaranui Road is unsealed. While it is a winding, gravel road, it is generally well-maintained and suitable for most vehicles, including standard campervans. Just take your time, keep left, and enjoy the views as you descend into the bay.
Once you arrive, there is ample parking available at the campground. Since Tōtaranui is a major hub for the park, you’ll find great facilities here, including toilets and fresh water. The walk is clearly signposted from the northern end of the camp.
The Abel Tasman is a haven for native birds, and the Totaranui to Pukatea Walk is a fantastic place to tick a few off your list.
The most common character you’ll encounter is the Weka. These flightless, brownish birds are incredibly curious and often quite bold. They are year-round residents of the campground and the forest floor. A word of warning: keep a close eye on your bags if you stop for a snack, as Weka are notorious "souvenir hunters"!
Up in the canopy, listen for the melodic, bell-like call of the Tūī and the Korimako (Bellbird). You’re also likely to hear the heavy "whoosh-whoosh" of wings as a Kererū (New Zealand Pigeon) flies overhead. These large, iridescent green and white birds are often seen perched precariously on thin branches gorging on berries.
Keep an eye out for the tiny, energetic Pīwakawaka (Fantail), which will often flutter right alongside you on the trail, catching the insects you stir up as you walk. If you’re lucky, you might even spot the Kōtare (Sacred Kingfisher) near the swamp area or the rare Pāteke (Brown Teal), which have been successfully reintroduced to the area as part of ongoing conservation efforts.
Best time of day: Early morning is magical. The birds are at their most vocal, and you’ll likely have the pukatea forest all to yourself before the day-trippers arrive via water taxi.
Tōtaranui holds a special place in the heart of the Nelson-Tasman region. For Manawhenua ki Mohua (the local Māori iwi), this area has a long history of occupation and resource gathering. The name Tōtaranui translates to "many tōtara," referencing the giant trees that once dominated this landscape.
In more recent colonial history, the area was farmed, which led to the clearing of much of the original bush. The Pukatea Walk is a living testament to the resilience of the New Zealand environment. It serves as a "regeneration showcase," where you can see young pukatea, rimu, and kahikatea trees pushing up through the scrub.
The entire area is now part of a massive conservation effort. Thanks to the work of Project Janszoon and the Department of Conservation, pests are being managed, and native species are thriving once again. When you walk this trail, you aren't just looking at trees; you’re looking at the future of New Zealand’s wilderness.
After you’ve finished your loop and returned to the golden sands of Tōtaranui, you’ll likely have worked up an appetite. Because Tōtaranui is somewhat remote, there aren't cafes right on the doorstep (aside from a small seasonal camp shop that sells basics and ice creams during the summer months).
Whether you’re staying for a week at the campground or just visiting for the afternoon, the Totaranui to Pukatea Walk is a gentle reminder that the best parts of the Abel Tasman aren't just on the beach—they’re hidden in the heart of the forest.
Anas chlorotis
The brown teal is a rare and endangered duck species, occasionally sighted in the wetlands and coastal areas of the Abel Tasman region.
Best time: Year-round
Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae
Endemic New Zealand honeyeater with distinctive white throat tuft and iridescent plumage. Known for its complex and beautiful song.
Best time: Year-round
Todiramphus sanctus
A vibrantly coloured bird renowned for its precision diving to catch fish, also eats insects and small lizards.
Best time: Year-round
Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae
New Zealand wood pigeon, a large native bird with iridescent green and purple plumage. Important for seed dispersal of native trees.
Best time: Year-round
Haematopus finschi
A striking black and white shorebird with a long, bright orange-red bill, commonly found on braided riverbeds.
Best time: Year-round
Best time: Year-round