Totaranui to Pukatea Walk

Out and back

Highlights & Must-See Features

The undisputed star of the show is the ancient pukatea forest. These trees are giants of the New Zealand bush, often growing in damp gullies. Keep an eye out for their distinctive buttress roots, which help stabilise them in soft ground. Within this forest, you’ll also find stunning glades of nīkau palms. With their feather-like fronds and smooth trunks, they give the trail a tropical, prehistoric feel—you wouldn't be surprised to see a dinosaur peering through the foliage!

Another highlight is the colossal rātā trees. These forest giants often start life as a vine, eventually wrapping around a host tree and growing into massive, gnarly structures that dominate the skyline.

For the photographers among us, the raupō swamp boardwalk provides a fantastic leading line for photos, especially in the soft light of the early morning or late afternoon. The contrast between the golden-brown reeds and the vibrant green forest backdrop is simply stunning.

Finally, don't miss the black mamaku (giant treeferns). They are some of the tallest tree ferns in the world, and their dark, scaly trunks and massive fronds add a wonderful texture to the forest scenery.

Getting There

To reach the trailhead, you’ll need to head to the Tōtaranui campground. If you’re driving from Takaka, take the turn-off toward Pohara and follow the road through to the Abel Tasman National Park.

A quick word of advice: the last 12km of Tōtaranui Road is unsealed. While it is a winding, gravel road, it is generally well-maintained and suitable for most vehicles, including standard campervans. Just take your time, keep left, and enjoy the views as you descend into the bay.

Once you arrive, there is ample parking available at the campground. Since Tōtaranui is a major hub for the park, you’ll find great facilities here, including toilets and fresh water. The walk is clearly signposted from the northern end of the camp.

Wildlife Spotting

The Abel Tasman is a haven for native birds, and the Totaranui to Pukatea Walk is a fantastic place to tick a few off your list.

The most common character you’ll encounter is the Weka. These flightless, brownish birds are incredibly curious and often quite bold. They are year-round residents of the campground and the forest floor. A word of warning: keep a close eye on your bags if you stop for a snack, as Weka are notorious "souvenir hunters"!

Up in the canopy, listen for the melodic, bell-like call of the Tūī and the Korimako (Bellbird). You’re also likely to hear the heavy "whoosh-whoosh" of wings as a Kererū (New Zealand Pigeon) flies overhead. These large, iridescent green and white birds are often seen perched precariously on thin branches gorging on berries.

Keep an eye out for the tiny, energetic Pīwakawaka (Fantail), which will often flutter right alongside you on the trail, catching the insects you stir up as you walk. If you’re lucky, you might even spot the Kōtare (Sacred Kingfisher) near the swamp area or the rare Pāteke (Brown Teal), which have been successfully reintroduced to the area as part of ongoing conservation efforts.

Seasonal Magic & Practical Tips

• Summer is the most popular time, offering the chance to combine your walk with a swim in the crystal-clear waters of Tōtaranui.
• Autumn and Spring are perhaps the best times for photographers, as the light is softer and the birdlife is particularly active.
• Winter in the Abel Tasman is often characterised by crisp, blue-sky days. Because the elevation gain is so low, you don't have to worry about snow or ice, making it a reliable winter escape.

Best time of day: Early morning is magical. The birds are at their most vocal, and you’ll likely have the pukatea forest all to yourself before the day-trippers arrive via water taxi.

• Footwear: While it’s an easy track, some sections can be muddy after rain, especially near the swamp. Comfortable walking shoes or sneakers with good grip are fine.
• Sun protection: Even though much of the walk is under the canopy, the initial stretch along the coast is exposed. Wear a hat and sunscreen.
• Insect repellent: The sandflies at Tōtaranui can be persistent, especially if the wind drops.
• Water: Bring a bottle; there are no taps once you leave the campground area.

Local & Regional Context

Tōtaranui holds a special place in the heart of the Nelson-Tasman region. For Manawhenua ki Mohua (the local Māori iwi), this area has a long history of occupation and resource gathering. The name Tōtaranui translates to "many tōtara," referencing the giant trees that once dominated this landscape.

In more recent colonial history, the area was farmed, which led to the clearing of much of the original bush. The Pukatea Walk is a living testament to the resilience of the New Zealand environment. It serves as a "regeneration showcase," where you can see young pukatea, rimu, and kahikatea trees pushing up through the scrub.

The entire area is now part of a massive conservation effort. Thanks to the work of Project Janszoon and the Department of Conservation, pests are being managed, and native species are thriving once again. When you walk this trail, you aren't just looking at trees; you’re looking at the future of New Zealand’s wilderness.

After the Walk

After you’ve finished your loop and returned to the golden sands of Tōtaranui, you’ll likely have worked up an appetite. Because Tōtaranui is somewhat remote, there aren't cafes right on the doorstep (aside from a small seasonal camp shop that sells basics and ice creams during the summer months).

• The Wholemeal Café in Takaka is a local institution, famous for its hearty salads, great coffee, and relaxed vibe—perfect for hikers.
• If you're after a cold pint and a classic pub meal, The Mussel Inn in Onekaka (about a 45-minute drive from Tōtaranui) is a must-visit. It’s world-renowned for its home-brewed beers and "no-nonsense" atmosphere.

Whether you’re staying for a week at the campground or just visiting for the afternoon, the Totaranui to Pukatea Walk is a gentle reminder that the best parts of the Abel Tasman aren't just on the beach—they’re hidden in the heart of the forest.

Anas chlorotis

The brown teal is a rare and endangered duck species, occasionally sighted in the wetlands and coastal areas of the Abel Tasman region.

Best time: Year-round